Author Topic: best heater  (Read 30367 times)

Smitty

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best heater
« on: November 27, 2011, 10:02:03 pm »
I am in the market for a waste oil heater to heat around 5000 sq. feet. any recommendations

Smitty

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Re: best heater
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2011, 12:39:09 pm »
forced air, buying a unit to heat a auto repair shop.

Russ

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Re: best heater
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2011, 09:26:04 am »
Hi Smitty,

Good question.  I think you will find that most of the people out on this forum are building or modifying heaters to burn waste oil, so unfortunately there might not be much help in the commercial heater area.

Maybe someone else will chime in here.

Best of luck finding a way to burn some free fuel!

jimbo789

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Re: best heater
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2012, 02:51:43 pm »

We are based UK. This is a great forum (nothing similar at home).

Leading brands in the UK auto market are Thermobile, Kroll and some of the US brands like EnergyLogic who have a great reputation but are expensive.

We recently bought a Hiton waste oil heater direct from www.zmosystems.co.uk . Made somewhere in Eastern Europe, cheap and cheerful but so far very reliable!

Not sure if available US so not sure if this helps. Good luck anyway.

draginmopars

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Re: best heater
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2013, 11:10:18 pm »
We heat a 28'6" x 40' area
with an eliminator Waste oil heater from Northern Tools
for the last 3 years
it's manual start
Have had NO problems with it.








z4cth3p4c

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Re: best heater
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2013, 08:29:31 pm »
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lEmUYJ3Qs7U

The kagi in action... I have used it for three seasons, but do not expect any waste oil burner to work well without doing your prep work. You have to clean them all almost every time you add more oil to your tank. Buying inline filters will help I have a washable lenz model. I clean my burn chamber 1 to 2 times per season, and my exhaust pipes. i wash my filters every time i add new oil. I have a suction filter on my pump.

The kagi unit is designed to burn oil at 100 micron cleanliness, and has a nozzle designed to burn dirtier oil. it does not use a metering pump because Tom believes if the filter is dirty then clean it do not put strain on your gun it will decrease it life expectancy.

it has an on board pump and preheat er, i have no preheat-er in my tank but my tank is room temp.

I would not recommend buying forced air type as waste oil burners just last longer as a boiler.

i am in love with my unit it has saved me thousands but getting to know it is part of using it. you almost have to be able to meditate with the thing, i might even know more about it than my fiance or good friends. (Sad I know) you get good at taking them apart cleaning them and putting them back together. You will need to do this with all of them so just pick one. you can add upgrades to the kagi as you go, smarter relays, different nozzles, cad cells with more sensitivity, you can buy different length blast tubes. just depends how much money you want to spend.

kagis long blast tube is designed to be installed in wood boilers.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2013, 08:42:56 pm by z4cth3p4c »

doug

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Re: best heater
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2013, 09:12:41 pm »
z4cth3p4c,

In your video you state that waste oil is 10x hotter than burning fuel oil. Where did you get that information? And where did you get the information that a forced air furnace doesn't last as long as a boiler system?

doug
You can't put it on the internet if it isn't true!

http://wasteoilheaterforum.com/index.php?topic=102.0

z4cth3p4c

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Re: best heater
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2013, 05:26:18 pm »
Lol, I suppose your right, and I do appreciate you correcting me. A friend of my fathers, works on them primarily as his specialty and he had told me this, I suppose I just kind of believed him and never bothered to question him as I have always respected his opinion as an elder.  Learned a lesson there I suppose. But it is notable that A gallon oil contains about 140k to 180k btus while a gallon of fuel oil is typically 140k. Suppose it depends on the viscosity of the oil.

Through personal experience I have found that a water jacketed piece of metal has the potential to more adequately stand up to the high temps of the waste oil. But I suppose it is also dependent on the level of precautionary steps you take.

Being that introducing water to a piece of metal it is then subject to oxidization, or the chemical effects of ethylene glycol. However with the proper care, rust inhibitor proper draining and storage some of these effects can be slowed down However I can see how a counter argument could easily be made against that. It is all dependent on the engineering, and the type of chemical wet pack in use, but if I was to choose between the two I would say that in my OPINION through personal experience. Boilers have the potential to be safer and last longer if operated, equipped and up kept properly.

I apologize for any inconveniences this may have caused and have edited the video thanks to your scrutiny.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2013, 05:34:22 pm by z4cth3p4c »