Used Motor oil for heating

[Harpswelding]

I use the same method to burn used motor oil as I do for WVO. A nozzel holder preheated to around 300 deg. F. The problem is ASH. Used motor oil burners need cleaning. I get around 30 gallons burnt between cleanings. I use heat to drop the viscosity and attomize the fuel without the use of compressed air. Matt, Zip code 19312.

[Kyle]

wow guy, how many gallons you burning in 30 hours??? and your preheat temps are kinda wild too, give me a run down of your setup.

[Russ]

Now Kyle, did you say that you dont wear glasses, but maybe you need them?  Ha ha... just kidding 
I think Matt said 30 gallons, not 30 hours.

That does sound a bit warm for motor oil?

[Kyle]

once again you are right Russ, maybe the glasses are a good idea, but yea for motor oil thats really high

[Harpswelding]

The oil is only that hot for a second or two as the nozzel is heated and not the oil before it enters the pump.
I own 3 air cooled motorcycles. 2 Harleys and a honda XR650L. The honda runs very high oil temps and recomends oil changes at 2000 miles. How hot do you think the oil hitting the underside of the piston is getting?
      It takes 2 things to crack oil, heat and time. The flash point of drain oil is just under 400 deg.
The high temps are needed to lower the viscosity so that a normal fuel nozzel can properly attomize the oil without the used of compressed air. I am running a .65 GPH extra solid nozzel but can also run up to a .85A.
Regards, Matt.

[Kyle]

well matt the reason I say it seems really high is because on my pressure nossel heater I run a preheat before the pump @ 120 f to take load off the pump, then just before the nossel I bump it up to 180 f and the combustion and spray pattern are great, but I suspect with synthetics it would need to be alot higher.  Now the problem with Used motor oil is that there s alot of additional carbon in the oil and as far as viscosity 180 will usually bring it to the equalant of #2. But I remind everyone, that we are here to discuss , learn and find out what works the best with little to no problems, so If it works for you with no nossel probs, cool. Maybe I'll try to keep bumping the temps up too...although like most fuels it only takes atomization and ignition at the right viscosity.

[snicks]

 For one your doing it way wrong. never heat oil past 160F or it will biuld scall in the nozzel and tubing. If you build it the way I did it will run for years. I have been running mine over 5 years and have not cleaned it or replaces a nozzel yet. You can convert any gun to burn used oil. All you need is a few pipe fittings and a small heater. it can be done for under $125.00...

[Harpswelding]

I do not have "scaling problems". At 100 Psi and 160 degrees a delval nozzel does not attomize the fuel very well. I also did not want to heat the oil outside of the burner for safety sake. At 120 degrees sprayed oil will burn you. I have already burnt 140 gallons of used motor oil this season with no problems and this is my third season. Like I stated I use a thermocouple / PID temp controller and not the old Clixon.....Big difference. I am just here to give what info I have and not to be negative.

[koolkris]

hey snicks would you care to share your ideas to modify a furnace?
i recently bought some plans on ebay to modify a furnace and bought some parts,
 a 325 watt element,relay, transformer and high limit switch .
but the more i read about this kind of heater the more i was thinking of bailing on this and going with a babington burner  to stay away from nozzle pluging problems.
my plans don't use air preasure, plans show  the element in the oil right before the nozzle,
i have also read that letting  the heating element touch the oil can cause problems to.
i would love to hear any and all ideas on this as posible, thanks kris

[Russ]

Hey kookkris,

Sounds like you are at the same spot as I am.  Are the plans you purchased on ebay from the user donna-mike?  I have checked out his description and it sounds like he is doing a pressure system, but I'm not sure how he heats the oil.  I would like to avoid having the heater touch the oil also.  He sells a parts kit too but the way it looks it might put the heater in contact with the oil.  I think it might have been harpswelding that had a block heater posted on ebay a while back that looked pretty nice.  Kepners block is nice, but it is a siphon system.  I think I am going to start out with a pressure system first and see how that goes.  Hopefully others will share their ideas on how to get the oil heated before the oil gets to the nozzle.

[koolkris]

yes russ those are the  plans i have,
 i have seen a heating block on ebay but it cost about $170
my friend has a machine shop and he said he would whip me out a heating block to try so my oil won't touch the element.
yes russ we are pretty much at same stage,  i wondered same thing about the filter on back of nozzle

[Russ]

Yea if you have a friend at a machine shop, you could probably get something working.  I think keeping the element out of contact with the oil is a good thing.  Also being able to insert a thermocouple and precisely control the heat would be nice.  My burner has a .85gph nozzle now and kyle suggested going down to a .65  What size nozzle you have?

[koolkris]

my furnace is a miller, and the nozzle size is .50
i just bought a honeywell temp controller on ebay to use for my element temp control.

here is the ebay description

   (  this is a honeywell temperature controller. it can be used to control the temp of air or liquid. i used it in my waste oil heater and have since change heaters. this will control the temp up to 175 degree f. you want your waste oil 140-180 to burn properly. just run power to this and connect your heating element. )

[snicks]

 I Sure will help you on on your plans to build the used oil furnace. The plans you got off from eBay are ok(thows are perty much a copy of my plans that i posted 5 to 6 years ago on a private FAQ site) and thats a cheap way to go. As long as you follow my guide lines. Don't heat the oil past 170F or you will have scaling problems and nozzle plugging. I have one build that way also. I also have been running it for 5 years or so know. And i have only cleaned the nozzle once a year. I use that one to heat a 30x65 shop. Im using a .5 gallon nozzle in it. heating the used oil at 165F. I burn around 700 gallons a year @70F.

I try to draw up some plans that I can post for you guys on my newer way of building a nozzle holder with a heating element in it that does not touch the oil. This can be done very cheaply also. All you need is a few simple shop tools like a drill (drill press is the best way to go) some drill bits and a few taps. 

Please don't over run me with emails if i don't get back to your right away. Some times it takes me 2 to 3 days to get back to people.

If you like you can email me at:::  wasteoil@charter.net

[snicks]

 I just wanted to post a website on flash points for different oils.. 

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flash-point-fuels-d_937.html

Keep in mind your ignite r Puts out around 250F to 280F or a little more(the spark its self).