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Messages - Wrench

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1
Drip System / Re: Got a Drip?
« on: January 05, 2015, 08:46:39 am »
Thanks Russ. Yeah things definitely could have been alot worse. It's our winter-beater too, so not a real big deal. I've found that new parts will be pricey, but if I can find used parts I'll be golden. It's 26 years old now, so not alot of parts around here for it, as they've all rotted away to nothing.

WOW that must've been one hell of a mess! I can imagine. I've spilled my share of oil, but usually out in the driveway. What a pain cleaning all that up! As I scramble around looking for rags and paper towels, the river grows wider and longer with every second ...  ;D

I've had excellent results with Permatex Right Stuff. It will bond to anything - and I mean BOND! Even that brass valve I had mounted to the plastic bucket took a bit of force to remove, even though it was seeping a bit. This stuff is where it's at for oil resistance.

My first time using the stuff, I used it on an old Ford 5.0 plenum as a gasket. When I finished, I realized the next day that I had forgotten some vacuum lines. When I took the bolts out, I couldn't get the plenum off the lower intake manifold! I ended up having to use my cherry picker (engine hoist) to break the bond - and this was a mid 80's Mercury Grand Marquis -  not a small car by any stretch - and it nearly had both front wheels off the ground before it broke free! The stuff is unbelievable. 8)

It's also currently holding back quarts of oil in the vehicle my wife crashed. I did a pan gasket on it (in a hurry) a few years back, and botched one section - it leaked oil like a sieve. Put a layer of Right Stuff  on the outside of it, and no more leak! I was sold after that. It's a little expensive, and very thick stuff to work with, but it can't be beat for holding back oil, so long as the surface is CLEAN.

2
User Projects & Pictures / Re: A Roger Sanders' garage heater in Oz
« on: January 05, 2015, 08:36:22 am »
Ahh ok, that sounds like your valve is working the way it's supposed to work. Sounds like your problem is unrelated to oil supply. Mine is also a totally different design from yours as well. You can check mine out here - it's about as simple and low-budget as you can get: http://wasteoilheaterforum.com/index.php?topic=291.0

Just looking inside my valve when I got it, I could see just a 1/8" opening - I suspected mine would be a problem before I even installed it.

Right now I have a brass needle valve that I just count the number of turns out from fully seated. Sometimes I forget where it's at and flood things, but I'm still learning it. I've pretty much got the hang of it now. I had burned some fryer grease in it once - that was a steep learning curve! Much harder to get lit, and it flowed MUCH faster. The setting I used for WMO had the WVO pouring out the front ...  ;D

Anyway ... from my work with engines, I know to make a fire you need the right amount of fuel, and the right amount of air (ignition and compression don't apply here). If things aren't right, it's either one of the 2 in this case. Another variable is the mass of the burn pot/plate/chamber .. or what have you. More mass will take longer to warm, but will hold heat longer resulting in a more complete burn. I've seen folks on Youtube add thick plate steel with holes drilled in it above the fire - this supposedly results in a more complete burn. One guy added a brake drum on top of the plate steel - his burned pretty clean ... but I don't know how hot things were, or how much oil he was feeding to make a judgement as to if that works or not ... 

My unit will smoke pretty heavily when I get  between 750° - 900°F +  glass temps - I usually need to crank it that high just to warm up the large, uninsulated space I work in.  The hotter within that range, the more smoke I get. It will blacken the glass, and make a haze in the shop. Once things get up to temp, I'll turn it down - anywhere between 500° - 650° on the front glass will have zero smoke. If I wipe the soot off the glass, it will remain clean. The fire will blind you, too - really bright white. 

When starting the fire, it takes quite some time before I'm able to give it 100% air. It will blow the fire out. If I restrict it, it will run, but not hot at all - maybe 200° -300° on the glass - and that's only after it's warmed up. If cold, any forced air at all will blow the fire out, or make it pathetically small ... which means no heat. 

I'm sure with a little tinkering you can find your issue. Keep at it.  :)

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: A Roger Sanders' garage heater in Oz
« on: January 04, 2015, 09:30:45 pm »
I know this is an old thread, but your picture of that glass drip valve caught my eye.

I could NOT get my system to burn hot AT ALL with that valve in place! I found it was restricting the flow too much. I had purchased mine off eBay, but it looks identical in every way to the one in your picture above. I tried drilling the passages larger ... but that ended up defeating the shutoff valve, rendering it pretty much useless to me.

The second I removed that valve from the equation, the system ran right up to 900°F PLUS!

Hope this helps.

4
Drip System / Re: Got a Drip?
« on: January 04, 2015, 09:10:47 pm »
Thanks Russ!

Was out there today basking in the warmth while I repaired collision damage to our winter beater. Wifey had a guardrail jump out in front of her after the snow last night. She's ok - could've been alot worse. All bolt-on stuff, so not a real big deal ... although I wasn't planning on spending any money this soon after Christmas ....  >:(

I let the bucket run dry today so I could fix that leak that was driving me nuts. I ended up removing the brass shutoff valve I had mounted there (never used anyway. because it was so close to the bucket that I had to cut the thin bar used as leverage to turn the valve on or off, and that made it too stiff to turn by hand), stuffed a 3/8" 30R7 rated fuel line in there, and covered the mating surfaces with Permatex Right Stuff, just as an added precaution. That line fit real tight in there, so that leak should be fixed once and for all.  8) 

Here's a pic of the bucket, my funnel support board I lay on top, and the funnel with the fine mesh screen to filter the oil. As you can see, not alot of cash went into this project.  ;D

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Drip System / Re: Got a Drip?
« on: January 02, 2015, 09:10:44 am »
Looks like my first post to this thread will also be my first post to this forum.  8)

I'm a mechanic - I'll fix anything with an engine, but mainly work on small engines. Been wanting to build a waste oil burner for YEARS, and just last month I FINALLY got around to doing so. I've had a Beckett powered #2 oil furnace heating my barn, up until '08 when the prices went crazy. Been freezing out there & just toughing it out the past 5 years, and only using what was left in the oil tank for emergencies.

I remember as a kid, my grandfather had built a Beckett powered waste oil burner out of a 55 gallon drum he lined with firebrick. I remember something about a "low pressure nozzle" ... but never got the details of how he made this thing work. NO compressed air, and NO electricity except to run the burner. I do remember him lighting it off using #2, and having the waste oil line wrapped beside the barrel to heat it up. Once burning, there wasn't even a wisp of smoke. Thing was amazing!! Been trying to copy that for years, and have failed at every turn. Sadly grandpa's knowledge is gone.  :-[

After a recent failed attempt, I decided my only option was to go drip. After watching a few Youtube videos on the subject, that gave me the motivation to get started. I built it using junk I had laying around, with the exception of the squirrel-cage convection blower I bought off Amazon for about $100. Did this on a restricted budget, but I made it work. I also bought a drip-sight-glass/shutoff valve, which turned out to be JUNK, and I have since scrapped (flow was severely restricted - $35 down the toilet ... >:( )

The stove I had built myself out of parts from a retired HVAC tech who was building coal-fired stoves & offering them for sale. I was going through some tough times, and he tried to help me out by having me build these stoves. Well, I discovered that I am a FAR better mechanic than a fabricator - the stove came out TERRIBLE. I could never sell it and be able to sleep at night, so this unit became my waste oil burner.

I took a spare Beckett burner that I've been experimenting with, and totally gutted it, leaving only the fan and the 3-point support inside the air tube. I ran my oil line inside the burner the way it normally goes in a Beckett, except it goes straight through to my stepped down exhaust pipe (about 2.5" in diameter). I used a plastic funnel to make the transition, and duct taped it to the pipe. The pipe was cut at 45° and welded together to make a 90° bend into the burn pot.

Burn pot is a '07 Silverado front brake rotor, with 2 Toyota Camry brake disc/drums that I cut and welded together like a spool. Added some height and mass to the burn chamber, since I had scrapped all my good brake drums. Cobbled together an exhaust (chimney) pipe out of 5" galvy I had laying around.

For a tank I was using a soup can with an air fitting attached to the bottom, just for testing. I've since graduated to a 6 gallon bucket with a fitting sealed in place, but the constant moving of the Beckett that is just laying on my loft stairs in my barn has caused it to leak a bit. Need to rig up a 55 gallon drum I have next ...

The moment of truth had arrived! There was a steep learning curve in getting this thing to light. I had way too much air with the Beckett, and had to figure out that I need to leave it OFF for several minutes and let the chamber heat up. Then, when I first plug it in, I needed to stuff a rag in the inlet (where the oil pump would be normally) to restrict the airflow. Once up to temp I remove the rag, and let her rip!

This is the BEST thing I have EVER built! Had my uninsulated 36'x26' barn with a loft up to 58° on a 17° night! More than happy with the setup!! My 500° engine paint I had kicking around from 20 years ago has burned completely off the front. It regularly sees glass temps of close to 900° when warming the place up. Takes a couple hours to heat from 35° to 60° - longer if it's colder out there. MUCH more tolerable working out there in the warmth! I've found that firing the unit at anything above 40° outside temps ends up being way too hot, no matter how much I throttle it back. I'll only run it a couple hours to take the chill off in that case.

I've been using a 12" funnel with a fine mesh screen only 1.5" in diameter to filter the oil. Been working fine unless I get into some real dirty crap. For example I burned about 20 gallons of fryer oil from a local business, and it was LOADED with bread crumbs and other trash that I had to filter using my larger, fine-mesh screen reusable coffee filters I had found in the trash, back when I worked in that industry. Still had to clean them constantly. Much easier burning used motor oil!

LOVE this setup! Only cleaning I have to do is scraping the brake rotor every morning. It runs almost 100% on synthetic oils, and burns ANYTHING you throw in there - even a little antifreeze that inadvertently gets mixed in sometimes. Highly recommend a simple drip system to anyone, as long as you don't mind the occasional fiddling as it's warming up, and as the oil level in the tank drops. I've got used to it, and can make simple adjustments to my feed valve as needed. Finally getting space back that has been taken up by years of used motor oil buckets! Plus I'm taking oil from anyone and everyone to boot.  8)

The only mod I've made since I took the pics was the addition of an old stainless chimney cap I had - I laid it in back of the stove to block the direct route of the flame to the chimney exit, forcing it to go up and over the cap to heat the stove instead. Lowered the stack temp by about 50°. Next up is making a more permanent (and larger) oil tank out of a 55 gallon drum. I'm thinking of laying it on it's side, and using the small vent bung to deliver the oil to the line.

Also just to edit here, the duct tape on top of the Beckett has been removed (way too much air, but will take it when it's burning hot - but, it forces smoke out all of the gaps in the ash door), and the chimney pipe has since been sealed with RTV. Also just realized I don't have any pics of my bucket setup. I'll get those and post them up eventually ...

To be continued!  :D
     

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