Oil pressure regulator

[ShopSpecialties]

The Lenz filter is a stainless steel element you can clean up in the parts washer. You can run your oil line over the top to the burner.

When you go to disassemble the preheat block a little heat on the plugs and elements will help them come out easier. Use gun cleaning brushes and solvent to get the inside of the block spotless. When going back together use a medium strength threadlocker and tighten till snug.

[ajparry89]

Ok, cool thanks.   so all these other O-rings and such, where are they located exactly?  just so I am prepared.  are they all within the block, or the disassembly of the block? 

[ShopSpecialties]

Nozzle holder o-ring.
Oil/Air solenoid o-rings.
Air filter regulator o-ring.

[ajparry89]

Oh Ok so do the solenoids actually disassemble themselves?  i need to remove that C-clip on top of them? 

[ShopSpecialties]

Yes, remove the C-clip and the electrical part slides off then you can remove the stem from the body.

[ajparry89]

Ok so i have re-positioned the pump so it is right off the top of the tank, and the line comes up, through the cartridge filter, and right into the pump.   

I have started disassembly of the burner.  my disassembly questions so far are, 1. I can not find the location of the big O-ring, the flat rubber washer things, and that white screen.  2.  besides the small O-rings down inside which i see, do the solenoids need to be disassembled any further than this/is it possible to further disassemble, or just clean them out as they are like this shown in the picture.

thanks for all your help!

[ajparry89]

Also, I am looking for a replacement Eye.  just preemptive maintenance, i guess.  Mine is honeywell C554A1687, when I search it, i get a lot of Beckett 7006U, which says it also interchanges for the honeywell part number that i listed.  is this correct information? 

[ShopSpecialties]

The plumbing of the pump could have be simpler and better.

The big o-ring and white filter are for the air filter regulator. The flat rubber washer things are diaphragms for the air and oil regulators. You do not need to remove the pipe nipples from the solenoids just make sure you get them spotless on the inside.

That cad cell is fine.

[ajparry89]

Ok, how could it have been more simple?  i actually took every measure to make it as simple as possible i thought.  i welded up that bracket so the pump sat right by the top of the tank.  there is the filter, then it elbows right down to the bottom of the tank.  unless you are referring to my 3 piece union...i wanted a way to be able to remove either just the down pipe or the filter/pump without needing to remove them all as a unit.  that is the only junction of any pieces.   simpler how?

I have a different air filter regulator on it then what it came with, so i am guessing that I wont be using those pieces then.   

[ShopSpecialties]

This is how I do every single one of mine.

Pickup screen - check valve - 3/4" black iron pipe - 3/4" street L - Lenz filter - 3/4"male to 1/2" female swivel - 1/2" hex nipple.

I am very picky about this part but you are close and on the right track. Also you should never use Teflon on the suction side. I use Loctite #2 gasket sealant because it sets and will not get pulled through the threads like Teflon can.

[ajparry89]

Ok good to know.   

next, is there a part number for this piece?  that spins around the outside of the air inlet for the fan, for more or less air.  I took it off during cleaning, and to clean it cause everything was filthy, and lets just say it didnt make it very far through that process lol.   or are there any tricks for a makeshift one? 

[ShopSpecialties]

Braze, solder or maybe try some JB-weld ?

[ajparry89]

So mostly good news....got it all back together, and it fired right up!!   sounds a lot different too, like whistling more.  not sure if thats just because its clean and working better or not...im not complaining, just commenting.   

so under normal circumstances, what should the air and oil pressures be set to?   

also, not sure why it would do this, or maybe its a different problem...but it seems to be smoking out of the furnace doors a lot more than it ever did before.   is that simply a draft issue, or could that be something else?  never had a draft problem.  is that just because its not really cold out yet and its not drafting hard like it will in the cold weather? 

[ShopSpecialties]

Put air at 12-14 PSI. Oil pressure ? I would set oil pressure by looking at the flame if you have a viewport to make it easy. If you cannot see the flame then we play the guessing game.

The smoke could be from overfiring, plugged full of ash, bird nest in the stovepipe cap..........

[ajparry89]

i can open the door and view my flame, yes.  any easy way to describe a good looking flame?    ive also gone by clear smoke out the chimney, is that correct too?

overfiring? 

also, i notice that on the inside of the furnace door there is some insulation type material laid all over it, almost for the purpose of sealing the door?  sort of like insulation you see in a house, but obviously it must be different, that stuff would catch on fire.  when i cleaned out the furnace last year i think i accidentally cleaned some of that stuff off.  is there insulation/sealing material out there meant for what i am describing?