fuel pre-heaters

[Joe mamma]

I'm wondering way no one has just used a magnetic oil pre-heater on there oil tank, like is available for a truck or car? Or how 'bout this; a finned cooler of any type. Any piece of junk from anything that doesn't leak. (A refrigerator, old power steering pump, old car heater, ect). Place in a metal tank. Fill tank with some anti-freeze solution. Connect your oil line to the cooler. Heat the tank of liquid with a magnetic heater. The heat will transfer to the oil running thru your "cooler". Wala heated oil to your burner.  your welcome

[Russ]

I have seen several creative ideas like this that can help preheat the oil.  It's these type of creative ideas that can lead to success.  Give it a try and let us know how it works!

[Blaine]

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

[Russ]

I hear ya Blane, I wish there was more activity too.  And I don't think facebooks are very good for archival information.  I like the forum layout better so you can browse topics instead of aimlessly scrolling through all random posts.  But whatever, its where a lot of discussion is going.  Probably some on Reddit too.  So many choices these days.

[coldblooded]

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

[Russ]

I didn't use a float tank for very long and it was warm enough that I didn't need a heater so I don't have any good ideas to share.  After dealing with the troubles I had with my tank, I decided to build a metering pump.  An SSR is a solid state relay.  I would bet that they use the relay to turn the heating element on and off to keep the tank warm somehow.  Sorry I'm not more help with that.

[Blaine]

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

  Sorry, i just saw your reply. I run my setup from a “pressure vessel” instead of the syphon method. It’s the same exact syphon nozzle, it’s just that the oil is supplied flow a pressurized tank with about 12psi and the fire runs continuously. i have a large drafty garage so that isn’t an issue.
I can however dial it back for lower heat output.

I use 2 PID controllers. One to regulate the oil preheater, and the other maintains a set burn temperature. There is a type k thermocouple attached to the preheater element (coffee maker element) to sense the temperature of the oil flowing through the element. The thermocouple provides feedback to the PID. The PID outputs a low voltage signal to the SSR and the SSR outputs 110v to the heating element when the PID commands it on.

 The other PID monitors flue temperature from a thermocouple in the stove pipe about 2 feet from the stove.  There are 2 valves plumbed in parallel in the oil line leading to the nozzle. One valve is adjusted to allow just enough oil through to maintain a small flame, sort of like a pilot setting. The other valve also has a solenoid plumbed in line with it. This solenoid is controlled by the fire temperature PID to allow more oil through to the nozzle until the flue temp set by the PID is reached. So when it’s up to temperature, this solenoid cycles on and off roughly every few seconds to maintain the temperature within +/- 10°… of the 1360°F of the flue temp.

The PID controllers are very inexpensive and have transformed my setup from a unpredictable, unsafe fire hazard into i safe, reliable, much cleaner burning source of free heat, and a lot of it.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $13.24 | Digital LCD PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller Set + K Thermocouple + Max.40A SSR Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKtFzyW

I’ve seen hot water heater elements used to heat the tank in your type of setup, controlled by a PID. Years ago in my early experience with waste oil heat gravity drip feed method, i was using a crock pot as a preheater, but it took forever to warm up, and it gave off oil smell fumes. And just about the time, i’d have to fill it back up with cold oil. This coffee maker element is up to temp in less than a minute and it only heats as needed. It cycles on and off at around a 30% duty cycle, maybe a little more if it’s really cold out.

 Here’s a YouTube video of my setup in its most recent configuration. I used to use a propane tank and get about 6 hours burn time to a tank full, but I’ve upped the tank to a water tank that easily holds 15 gallons of oil and lasts for over 20 hours between fillings. I used to use a bunch of 1/4 turn ball valves for the air and oil circuits, but most have been replaced with solenoids with the plans to some day automate everything with an auduino with the flick of a switch.

 I’d probably reply faster to comments left on YouTube than this forum if you have any questions.
https://youtu.be/WoFPJMEt0yU?si=pT89pcTbGd6cNzeV

[coldblooded]

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

  Sorry, i just saw your reply. I run my setup from a “pressure vessel” instead of the syphon method. It’s the same exact syphon nozzle, it’s just that the oil is supplied flow a pressurized tank with about 12psi and the fire runs continuously. i have a large drafty garage so that isn’t an issue.
I can however dial it back for lower heat output.

I use 2 PID controllers. One to regulate the oil preheater, and the other maintains a set burn temperature. There is a type k thermocouple attached to the preheater element (coffee maker element) to sense the temperature of the oil flowing through the element. The thermocouple provides feedback to the PID. The PID outputs a low voltage signal to the SSR and the SSR outputs 110v to the heating element when the PID commands it on.

 The other PID monitors flue temperature from a thermocouple in the stove pipe about 2 feet from the stove.  There are 2 valves plumbed in parallel in the oil line leading to the nozzle. One valve is adjusted to allow just enough oil through to maintain a small flame, sort of like a pilot setting. The other valve also has a solenoid plumbed in line with it. This solenoid is controlled by the fire temperature PID to allow more oil through to the nozzle until the flue temp set by the PID is reached. So when it’s up to temperature, this solenoid cycles on and off roughly every few seconds to maintain the temperature within +/- 10°… of the 1360°F of the flue temp.

The PID controllers are very inexpensive and have transformed my setup from a unpredictable, unsafe fire hazard into i safe, reliable, much cleaner burning source of free heat, and a lot of it.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $13.24 | Digital LCD PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller Set + K Thermocouple + Max.40A SSR Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKtFzyW

I’ve seen hot water heater elements used to heat the tank in your type of setup, controlled by a PID. Years ago in my early experience with waste oil heat gravity drip feed method, i was using a crock pot as a preheater, but it took forever to warm up, and it gave off oil smell fumes. And just about the time, i’d have to fill it back up with cold oil. This coffee maker element is up to temp in less than a minute and it only heats as needed. It cycles on and off at around a 30% duty cycle, maybe a little more if it’s really cold out.

 Here’s a YouTube video of my setup in its most recent configuration. I used to use a propane tank and get about 6 hours burn time to a tank full, but I’ve upped the tank to a water tank that easily holds 15 gallons of oil and lasts for over 20 hours between fillings. I used to use a bunch of 1/4 turn ball valves for the air and oil circuits, but most have been replaced with solenoids with the plans to some day automate everything with an auduino with the flick of a switch.

 I’d probably reply faster to comments left on YouTube than this forum if you have any questions.
https://youtu.be/WoFPJMEt0yU?si=pT89pcTbGd6cNzeV

Thanks for your reply and nice video on YouTube.  Yeah, that's a cheap price for the PIDD and thermocouple on aliexpress.  But, it wouldn't let me place my order using paypal.  How did you pay?  I was also thinking about monitoring my exhaust temp and burn chamber temp.  Is that what the exhaust temp is supposed to be (1360 degrees F)?  Thanks.