Author Topic: water or steam injection to wmo burner  (Read 17282 times)

UPSMAN

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water or steam injection to wmo burner
« on: December 29, 2013, 04:56:50 pm »
 ::)

Ok to you serious burners, have or are any of you injecting water or steam in an effort to loosen/purge/combat soot build up in the burners and flues?

I have experimented only in the smallest sense by using a 1L pesi bottle sometimes with 1/4 full of water then wmo or wvo fill the remaining and set inside my wood furnace inside a metal tin.

The resulting steam and minor explosions help varporize the oil but I hope from what I see in the snow it is removing some soot from the flue.

I know the big boys use steam atomizers and some folks use a version of water injection in their diesels to reduce EGT and deposits and increase power.

My mind has some many things running thru it I would like to experiment with but the spirit is just not willing most days...

Scored 60L today of waste wvo I will warm and filter and blend into my shop furnace with some wmo already in solution.  Tonight -17C  later -24--28 thru out the week.

LM
If it ain't burning then its not hot enuff!!

UPSMAN

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Re: water or steam injection to wmo burner
« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2014, 04:53:15 pm »
 ::) awfully cold in here, guess everyone is trying to keep warm.  Been a tough week trying to stay warm and not burn up the woodpile....

Been working a bit in the shop, burnt about 10 galls of wmo/wvo blended with rug.  The house I have been trying to extend the wood so I have been mixing a slurry of wmo or wvo , mdf and particle board sawdust in a cardboard tube with a hole down the centre. At -28C we go thru a lot of wood in this house (forced air) and this has been working very well if I have the draft blower on for excess air.  I added a bit of snow to the sawdust and found that it helped to generate a bit of steam in the burn and help clean out soot.

In the shop a lot of wvo has water in it already and I leave it in suspension with the rug and find that my soot levels are fairly light.  I measured the stack temp and found I am about 550 F after 30 min with intake air starting around 30 F and stopping around 60 F as I do not need it any warmer than that to work in.   You can tell the difference from wvo to mo in that extra heat coming out the blower!

I stopped work on the metering pump for now, I am only getting a dribble out the pipe with the bypass spring out, gasket blocking the ports.  My oil is aout SAE 50 so I put this on hold for now. May have to go electric pump and set it up as a 2 pipe unit. That can wait till later. I am redoing my setup for my centrifuge and heater and am redoing all the plumbing then will relocate it to a corner of the shop.  After fuging I will pump into indoor fiberglass double wall tank as a clean wmo source to be blended into the day tank later.  I will have a dump tank poly with a continuous 10 micron filter on it prior to fuging, likely using a suntec pump  Hot tank is a John Wood 30 gallon oil fired heater I scored sometime ago.  My pump is a hydraulic .16 cui that can easily generate volume and pressure for the fuge.

I keep my wvo separate in 45 gallon poly drums settling and take off what I need daily using a parts washer pump hanging in the mix.  Viscosity is a bit much say 40 W but it works ok on the pump and lets me slowly blend with rug.

Some ask why am I not making black hho for the house?  I do a bit but it is a HE unit sidewall vent and I do not want to soot it up as I have no brushes for the heat exchanger. I will add some wvo blended later in the spring and will do some lightly blended wmo later. I turned the pump up to 120 but I am only on a .5 gph nozzle so I need to be careful and not mess it up and screw up the auto backup feature when i am not home.

Too cold and snow too deep to be in the woods, my machine will not plow thru the deep snow right now without a tril or being plowed.

Any way stay warm

LM
If it ain't burning then its not hot enuff!!