Waste oil stove update after Photobucket paid images

[Rapidrob]

We all fell into the pit of darkness after Photobucket decided that 300 bucks would free-up your third party photos.
This is an update on an oil burning stove I did last year.
The stove body is very heavy being made from high pressure gas/oil pipeline. The walls are 1/2" thick. The base is 3/4" cold rolled steel to prevent burn/rust out for a lifetime.
I tried several burner designs for a modified air/drip system and settled on a modified automotive brakes burner.
What this is is a truck brake drum is used as the fire box.The hub and stud holes are welded shut.  The top of the drum brake is sealed by the same maker truck disk brake with the center cut out. A flue is made from heavy walled steel pipe and perforated to allow air flow and proper mixture of the dripping oil vapors and air.
Out side of the stove is a gravity feed 5 gallon steel pail and pet cock valve. I found this works very well to pre-heat the oil and allow a drip rate to be set. My oil is a verity of mixed waste oils and not super clean.
The air is provided by a small two cylinder air brush compressor. It only draws as much current as a 75 Watt bulb.
I fed the air to the side if the flue via a copper line and a small orifice I made with a hole just large enough to really swirl the air in the burner. The pump is now outside of the shop in a weather proof box. This removes all the noise.
The stove takes 20 minutes to heat up before a thermostatic fan kicks in to move the warm air around the shop.
The stove body heats up to 600 Degrees F if I let the oil flow and 350 DF if I let it drip.
The mass of the stove stays hot for a couple of hours when shut down.
Inside of the stove I have stacked several heavy steel plates as well as old brake disk to slow the rising heat and disperse it around the body of the stove.
The stove is fairly efficient in that I burn 5 gallons of oil on a really cold day in ten hours of drip time.
This will keep my shop a 65 Degrees F. If I need to go warmer to dry paint,etc I will increase the temp to 75 Degrees F and burn the oil in 6 hours.
When at temp there is no smoke nor any smell.
The burner comes apart instantly for removing the ash in the drum brake. I only need to do this once a month depending on the quality of the waste oil.
So far I have not found an oil that does not burn well in this stove.


   

[doug]

I like your burner. Simple, heavy duty, and functional. Thanks for sharing

[Rapidrob]

Other than the burner's chimney and fittings for the air the parts are free. A local mechanic gave me a brake drum and brake rotors. The chimney is extra heavy for heat mass. It could be just about any metal that can take the heat.
The other used brake rotors are stacked like a pagoda above the burner to trap and divert heat as it rises in the stove.
 

[doug]

Have you ever run your stove without the air pump? Just wondering what kinds of temps the stove is capable without air.

[Rapidrob]

The stove body will heat to 300 degrees F. at fast drip.

[Sypher]

Have you ever tried Hydromax and run your stove without the air pump? Just wondering what kinds of temps the stove is capable without air.

That's pretty hot indeed. I like the burner. It looks like it's doing the job well and I'm a fan of that.

[Rapidrob]

Since I posted the 300 deg.F on the stove body it has become more efficient do a drip tube placement and can run as high as 700 degrees.
I found I can reduce the drip to one a second and the stove will run all day at 450 D-F.
I now have the oil drip hit the edge of the hole and splatter (vacuum sucks it into the burn chamber) and it is instantly flashed into vapors. The stove now roars a little but I can heat the shop all day long on three gallons of used oil.
I'm using old Fork Oil from a motorcycle shop, the kind that is not supposed to burn or foam, but it sure does in this stove.