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21
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by coldblooded on January 24, 2024, 08:59:29 pm »
Everything looks blank in the pictures.  Do you have any lights when it is lighting or after it quits?

Sorry about the pictures.  The manual tells what all the lights do. But I got some more info from CK.

CK said to hook it up this way:  "limit gets 110v, L2 gets neutral. Solenoids go on the valve terminal. Motor terminals powers the motor AND ignition transformer. THE NOZZLE CANNOT SEE AIR PRESSURE UNTIL AFTER THE 15 SECOND PRE PURGE".

So the valve terminals are 110V, but like you said, will this supply enough current to run the vacuum pump?  And, if I hook it up the way he said, the ignitor will always be sparking when the blower motor is running, right?  I think he's saying, if you use the valve terminals to turn your air on, there will be a 15 second delay before the oil ignites, and that's what you want.  If the oil ignites before the 15 seconds, the burner shuts down, and that is what I have been experiencing.  I was plugging my vacuum pump in before the 15 second delay, and that's what caused it to shut down.  At least that's what I get out of what CK said.  What do you think?  Thanks.
22
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by Russ on January 24, 2024, 08:10:53 pm »
Everything looks blank in the pictures.  Do you have any lights when it is lighting or after it quits?
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by coldblooded on January 24, 2024, 02:03:10 pm »
another picture
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by coldblooded on January 24, 2024, 01:58:33 pm »
In your case you don't have an air solenoid and you don't need one.  You would use a solenoid if you had a large compressor with an air tank.  That air tank would always have air in it and if you didn't have a solenoid, the air would continue to flow, even when the burner was shut off.  In your case, you are controlling the air flow by turning your vacuum pump on and off, eliminating the need for a solenoid.  So when CK says to connect your solenoid to the valve terminals, you could just connect your compressor there instead.  The question that I am unsure about is if the valve terminals supply 110V, and if they do, would they provide enough current to start and run your vacuum pump.  I will look at my setup tonight and see if my pump is powered directly from the primary control, or if I have some sort of relay installed, I cant remember.  But in the meantime you can certainly plug and unplug it as you need.  When you plug it in, it should be providing air to siphon the fuel.  And then if you have spark, you should have ignition.  Now, as to why it is shutting down shortly after it starts, it seems like a safety kicking in somewhere.  Do you have a display on your control that indicates what might be happening?

I don't have much of a display.  It's just a solid or flashing red light indicating a lock out condition.  But CK also said "7505b has a prepurge delay. Don't turn the air on until it does its 15 seconds prepurge.  It says it has a 15 second pre".  So I think he means, let it call for heat, the blower motor will turn on and the ignitor will start sparking, then I should wait 15 seconds to plug in the compressor.  But I thought if the ignitor sparks for 15 seconds it'll lock out.  I need to get out there and try it and see what happens.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by Russ on January 24, 2024, 12:51:49 pm »
In your case you don't have an air solenoid and you don't need one.  You would use a solenoid if you had a large compressor with an air tank.  That air tank would always have air in it and if you didn't have a solenoid, the air would continue to flow, even when the burner was shut off.  In your case, you are controlling the air flow by turning your vacuum pump on and off, eliminating the need for a solenoid.  So when CK says to connect your solenoid to the valve terminals, you could just connect your compressor there instead.  The question that I am unsure about is if the valve terminals supply 110V, and if they do, would they provide enough current to start and run your vacuum pump.  I will look at my setup tonight and see if my pump is powered directly from the primary control, or if I have some sort of relay installed, I cant remember.  But in the meantime you can certainly plug and unplug it as you need.  When you plug it in, it should be providing air to siphon the fuel.  And then if you have spark, you should have ignition.  Now, as to why it is shutting down shortly after it starts, it seems like a safety kicking in somewhere.  Do you have a display on your control that indicates what might be happening?
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« Last post by coldblooded on January 24, 2024, 10:05:23 am »
Good to see flame, but bummer to hear that it doesn't keep going.  If no air solenoid, how are you starting and stopping the air flow?  There is usually a flame sensor that will shut everything down if it doesnt see a flame to prevent fuel from going everywhere.  Is it possible the sensor is not seeing the flame or otherwise not working for some reason?

Hi Russ, Hope you are well.  To test the flame sensor, I bypassed it.  But the problem didn't go away.  CK said "Sounds like you have a safety that has a pre purge delay. If this is the case, the air solenoid needs to be on the valve terminals. The cad cell cannot see light during the pre purge delay". I'm sure he's right but I haven't figured out what he means yet. I don't have a air solenoid, I took your advice and have a onboard Thomas 2660 vacuum pump/compressor and really don't know how to wire it up, or how to connect the wires to the safety.  As a test, I'm currently just manually plugging the onboard compressor in when the burner motor starts.  How do I wire up the vacuum pump?  I didn't think I needed a air solenoid, but I guess I do.  Thanks.
27
Fuel Pre-Heaters / Re: fuel pre-heaters
« Last post by Russ on January 22, 2024, 08:44:20 pm »
I hear ya Blane, I wish there was more activity too.  And I don't think facebooks are very good for archival information.  I like the forum layout better so you can browse topics instead of aimlessly scrolling through all random posts.  But whatever, its where a lot of discussion is going.  Probably some on Reddit too.  So many choices these days.
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Waste Motor Oil / Siphon Nozzle Flow Changes?
« Last post by GerryADS on January 18, 2024, 07:26:41 am »
Hey Folks,

I've been running a Delavan 30609-9 (SNA.85) for a few years, and have generally ironed out most of the bugs in my system, however recently I have found that the quantity of oil consumed has drastically reduced for the same air pressure. I've had it apart a good few times over the years, to clean and replace the seal, however the main system remains the same, in that my pre-heat tank sit at 99C via PID, my siphon height is the same 30mm below the nozzle orifice (control keeps level to within 5mm) and my nozzle PID heater holds 75C. Previously I would consume approx. 3.7 Litres per hour at 5psi air pressure, but now I'm down to about half of that? I've checked everything for leaks, replaced all the fittings and pipe work, and new viton seal, all fittings are clean, and there has been no physical changes, but it would appear I've lost vacuum from the siphon effect?
Does the nozzle wear (there is nothing visual, but I don't have another to compare - yet) my oil is filtered to better than 100 microns, but this nozzle has probably seen 12000 Litres use, anybody else experience similar?

29
Fuel Pre-Heaters / Re: fuel pre-heaters
« Last post by Blaine on January 16, 2024, 09:58:47 pm »
I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: fire not keeping up with oil supply
« Last post by Henney do dar on January 07, 2024, 03:25:01 pm »
I do believe this is one of the challenges of a drip system.  When the oil is cold, it will drip slower, then as it warms up it drips faster.  I do believe you will need some sort of regulator on the oil supply side to keep too much oil from dripping in.
i think it is better to regulate the trip tray in some form of float switch that will take the heat
Some kind of very small switch made from metal

But they make oil drip fed systems (or used to do) and they must of solved this problem
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