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Messages - coldblooded

Pages: [1] 2
1
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: March 12, 2024, 07:20:32 pm »
Interesting, I might have to give it a try again myself.  I have worn out at least 2 primarys, so that would certainly help keep the hours down on my current one.

As for the float tank, I dont have any good ideas to make it better.  Like you, I started out with a CL tank, but had many problems with it and finally built a metering pump.  It works great and I highly recommend it.  Here is the topic where I discuss what I did to build it:
https://wasteoilheaterforum.com/index.php?topic=293.0
Thanks.  I'll consider a metering pump.

2
Fuel Pre-Heaters / Re: fuel pre-heaters
« on: March 12, 2024, 07:06:20 pm »
I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

  Sorry, i just saw your reply. I run my setup from a “pressure vessel” instead of the syphon method. It’s the same exact syphon nozzle, it’s just that the oil is supplied flow a pressurized tank with about 12psi and the fire runs continuously. i have a large drafty garage so that isn’t an issue.
I can however dial it back for lower heat output.

I use 2 PID controllers. One to regulate the oil preheater, and the other maintains a set burn temperature. There is a type k thermocouple attached to the preheater element (coffee maker element) to sense the temperature of the oil flowing through the element. The thermocouple provides feedback to the PID. The PID outputs a low voltage signal to the SSR and the SSR outputs 110v to the heating element when the PID commands it on.

 The other PID monitors flue temperature from a thermocouple in the stove pipe about 2 feet from the stove.  There are 2 valves plumbed in parallel in the oil line leading to the nozzle. One valve is adjusted to allow just enough oil through to maintain a small flame, sort of like a pilot setting. The other valve also has a solenoid plumbed in line with it. This solenoid is controlled by the fire temperature PID to allow more oil through to the nozzle until the flue temp set by the PID is reached. So when it’s up to temperature, this solenoid cycles on and off roughly every few seconds to maintain the temperature within +/- 10°… of the 1360°F of the flue temp.

The PID controllers are very inexpensive and have transformed my setup from a unpredictable, unsafe fire hazard into i safe, reliable, much cleaner burning source of free heat, and a lot of it.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $13.24 | Digital LCD PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller Set + K Thermocouple + Max.40A SSR Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKtFzyW

I’ve seen hot water heater elements used to heat the tank in your type of setup, controlled by a PID. Years ago in my early experience with waste oil heat gravity drip feed method, i was using a crock pot as a preheater, but it took forever to warm up, and it gave off oil smell fumes. And just about the time, i’d have to fill it back up with cold oil. This coffee maker element is up to temp in less than a minute and it only heats as needed. It cycles on and off at around a 30% duty cycle, maybe a little more if it’s really cold out.

 Here’s a YouTube video of my setup in its most recent configuration. I used to use a propane tank and get about 6 hours burn time to a tank full, but I’ve upped the tank to a water tank that easily holds 15 gallons of oil and lasts for over 20 hours between fillings. I used to use a bunch of 1/4 turn ball valves for the air and oil circuits, but most have been replaced with solenoids with the plans to some day automate everything with an auduino with the flick of a switch.

 I’d probably reply faster to comments left on YouTube than this forum if you have any questions.
https://youtu.be/WoFPJMEt0yU?si=pT89pcTbGd6cNzeV

Thanks for your reply and nice video on YouTube.  Yeah, that's a cheap price for the PIDD and thermocouple on aliexpress.  But, it wouldn't let me place my order using paypal.  How did you pay?  I was also thinking about monitoring my exhaust temp and burn chamber temp.  Is that what the exhaust temp is supposed to be (1360 degrees F)?  Thanks.

3
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: March 12, 2024, 06:15:27 pm »
Good to hear you got it to keep running.  You will have to post back and let us know how it works when turning off the spark. I tried it once but didnt have very good luck so mine is on all of the time while the burner is on.

Hi Russ, I'm getting back to you.  I've been running my furnace for a month with the burner wired up to turn the spark off when it sees a flame, and it's been working perfectly.  The temps around here have been warm (40 degrees F), though.   If that matters.  I don't know how it will work when it gets real cold, like minus 10 below zero.  I'm having problems with my float valve though.  It doesn't work, it sticks.  Any ideas on how to keep the oil level constant in my float tank?  Thanks.

4
Fuel Pre-Heaters / Re: fuel pre-heaters
« on: January 27, 2024, 10:44:01 am »
I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

5
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 26, 2024, 08:58:32 am »
Good to hear you got it to keep running.  You will have to post back and let us know how it works when turning off the spark. I tried it once but didnt have very good luck so mine is on all of the time while the burner is on.

I'll try to let you know how mine works with the spark turning off.  Mine turns off after about 25 seconds.  What kind of problems were you having before you kept the spark on all of the time while the burner is on?  Thanks.

6
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 25, 2024, 01:51:21 pm »
Here's the Thomas 2660 vacuum pump that I use for the compressed air.

7
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 25, 2024, 01:48:43 pm »
I finally got the burner to light and stay burning.  Using the motor wire to run the air solenoid won't work. If you use the motor wire to run the air solenoid, it will light and the eye will see flame before the 15 second pre purge, and the system will shut down. You have to use the VALVE TERMINALS to turn on the air solenoid. I don't know what the 15 second pre purge (associated with the valve terminals) is designed to do, but you have to wait 15 seconds before you make a flame, or else the system will shut down. I don't use a air solenoid. I have a on board air compressor (a Thomas 2660 vacuum pump) without a tank that I'll just turn on and off as needed (see picture). I'll go from the valve terminals to a relay to the air compressor.  I've got it wired so the ignitor does NOT stay arcing all the time.  Thanks Russ, for all your input.

8
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 24, 2024, 08:59:29 pm »
Everything looks blank in the pictures.  Do you have any lights when it is lighting or after it quits?

Sorry about the pictures.  The manual tells what all the lights do. But I got some more info from CK.

CK said to hook it up this way:  "limit gets 110v, L2 gets neutral. Solenoids go on the valve terminal. Motor terminals powers the motor AND ignition transformer. THE NOZZLE CANNOT SEE AIR PRESSURE UNTIL AFTER THE 15 SECOND PRE PURGE".

So the valve terminals are 110V, but like you said, will this supply enough current to run the vacuum pump?  And, if I hook it up the way he said, the ignitor will always be sparking when the blower motor is running, right?  I think he's saying, if you use the valve terminals to turn your air on, there will be a 15 second delay before the oil ignites, and that's what you want.  If the oil ignites before the 15 seconds, the burner shuts down, and that is what I have been experiencing.  I was plugging my vacuum pump in before the 15 second delay, and that's what caused it to shut down.  At least that's what I get out of what CK said.  What do you think?  Thanks.

9
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 24, 2024, 02:03:10 pm »
another picture

10
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 24, 2024, 01:58:33 pm »
In your case you don't have an air solenoid and you don't need one.  You would use a solenoid if you had a large compressor with an air tank.  That air tank would always have air in it and if you didn't have a solenoid, the air would continue to flow, even when the burner was shut off.  In your case, you are controlling the air flow by turning your vacuum pump on and off, eliminating the need for a solenoid.  So when CK says to connect your solenoid to the valve terminals, you could just connect your compressor there instead.  The question that I am unsure about is if the valve terminals supply 110V, and if they do, would they provide enough current to start and run your vacuum pump.  I will look at my setup tonight and see if my pump is powered directly from the primary control, or if I have some sort of relay installed, I cant remember.  But in the meantime you can certainly plug and unplug it as you need.  When you plug it in, it should be providing air to siphon the fuel.  And then if you have spark, you should have ignition.  Now, as to why it is shutting down shortly after it starts, it seems like a safety kicking in somewhere.  Do you have a display on your control that indicates what might be happening?

I don't have much of a display.  It's just a solid or flashing red light indicating a lock out condition.  But CK also said "7505b has a prepurge delay. Don't turn the air on until it does its 15 seconds prepurge.  It says it has a 15 second pre".  So I think he means, let it call for heat, the blower motor will turn on and the ignitor will start sparking, then I should wait 15 seconds to plug in the compressor.  But I thought if the ignitor sparks for 15 seconds it'll lock out.  I need to get out there and try it and see what happens.

11
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: January 24, 2024, 10:05:23 am »
Good to see flame, but bummer to hear that it doesn't keep going.  If no air solenoid, how are you starting and stopping the air flow?  There is usually a flame sensor that will shut everything down if it doesnt see a flame to prevent fuel from going everywhere.  Is it possible the sensor is not seeing the flame or otherwise not working for some reason?

Hi Russ, Hope you are well.  To test the flame sensor, I bypassed it.  But the problem didn't go away.  CK said "Sounds like you have a safety that has a pre purge delay. If this is the case, the air solenoid needs to be on the valve terminals. The cad cell cannot see light during the pre purge delay". I'm sure he's right but I haven't figured out what he means yet. I don't have a air solenoid, I took your advice and have a onboard Thomas 2660 vacuum pump/compressor and really don't know how to wire it up, or how to connect the wires to the safety.  As a test, I'm currently just manually plugging the onboard compressor in when the burner motor starts.  How do I wire up the vacuum pump?  I didn't think I needed a air solenoid, but I guess I do.  Thanks.

12
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: December 14, 2023, 10:18:31 pm »
I hooked up my ckburner kit for the 1st time.  I got it to light but the blower fan quits turning and the flame goes out shortly after.  Craig said something about the pre-purge/delay, and the air solenoid, but I don’t have an air solenoid.  Why is this happening?  What should I do?  Thanks.

13
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: March 21, 2023, 07:55:04 pm »
thank you sir

14
Waste Motor Oil / Re: question about a waste oil burner
« on: March 21, 2023, 12:12:36 pm »
What happens if you don't have an air solenoid on the air inlet?  I should get a NC (normally closed) one right?  And any advice on wiring it up?

I bought a 2660 vacuum pump, but it doesn't have a capacitor.  Any advice on finding the right capacitor for it?

Thanks

15
User Projects & Pictures / Re: New Burnham Boiler Project
« on: March 12, 2023, 09:52:36 pm »
I'm going to try this Thomas 2660 vacuum pump for my air source.  Matt (Mschindler300) is working on getting his burner attached compressor done, but in the mean time I wanted to get something quieter than my big compressor.  I was also having problems with my big compressor blowing the breaker.  Unfortunately everything is plugged into the same circuit, so hopefully this will prevent the breaker from blowing.  I have heard that these pumps (they work as a vacuum or compressor) will easily provide enough air for a burner.  I will report back how it works.

Hi Russ,
I was wondering if we could get a picture showing how you got the 2660 vacuum pump set up and any comments you have about it?  Was wondering if I should use a little tank with it or does it pump air straight to the nozzle and what's the max rating on the regulator you use?
Thanks!

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