Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.

Quote from: coldblooded on January 27, 2024, 10:44:01 am

Quote from: Blaine on January 16, 2024, 09:58:47 pm

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

  Sorry, i just saw your reply. I run my setup from a “pressure vessel” instead of the syphon method. It’s the same exact syphon nozzle, it’s just that the oil is supplied flow a pressurized tank with about 12psi and the fire runs continuously. i have a large drafty garage so that isn’t an issue.
I can however dial it back for lower heat output.

I use 2 PID controllers. One to regulate the oil preheater, and the other maintains a set burn temperature. There is a type k thermocouple attached to the preheater element (coffee maker element) to sense the temperature of the oil flowing through the element. The thermocouple provides feedback to the PID. The PID outputs a low voltage signal to the SSR and the SSR outputs 110v to the heating element when the PID commands it on.

 The other PID monitors flue temperature from a thermocouple in the stove pipe about 2 feet from the stove.  There are 2 valves plumbed in parallel in the oil line leading to the nozzle. One valve is adjusted to allow just enough oil through to maintain a small flame, sort of like a pilot setting. The other valve also has a solenoid plumbed in line with it. This solenoid is controlled by the fire temperature PID to allow more oil through to the nozzle until the flue temp set by the PID is reached. So when it’s up to temperature, this solenoid cycles on and off roughly every few seconds to maintain the temperature within +/- 10°… of the 1360°F of the flue temp.

The PID controllers are very inexpensive and have transformed my setup from a unpredictable, unsafe fire hazard into i safe, reliable, much cleaner burning source of free heat, and a lot of it.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $13.24 | Digital LCD PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller Set + K Thermocouple + Max.40A SSR Tools
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKtFzyW

I’ve seen hot water heater elements used to heat the tank in your type of setup, controlled by a PID. Years ago in my early experience with waste oil heat gravity drip feed method, i was using a crock pot as a preheater, but it took forever to warm up, and it gave off oil smell fumes. And just about the time, i’d have to fill it back up with cold oil. This coffee maker element is up to temp in less than a minute and it only heats as needed. It cycles on and off at around a 30% duty cycle, maybe a little more if it’s really cold out.

 Here’s a YouTube video of my setup in its most recent configuration. I used to use a propane tank and get about 6 hours burn time to a tank full, but I’ve upped the tank to a water tank that easily holds 15 gallons of oil and lasts for over 20 hours between fillings. I used to use a bunch of 1/4 turn ball valves for the air and oil circuits, but most have been replaced with solenoids with the plans to some day automate everything with an auduino with the flick of a switch.

 I’d probably reply faster to comments left on YouTube than this forum if you have any questions.
https://youtu.be/WoFPJMEt0yU?si=pT89pcTbGd6cNzeV

Thanks for your reply and nice video on YouTube.  Yeah, that's a cheap price for the PIDD and thermocouple on aliexpress.  But, it wouldn't let me place my order using paypal.  How did you pay?  I was also thinking about monitoring my exhaust temp and burn chamber temp.  Is that what the exhaust temp is supposed to be (1360 degrees F)?  Thanks.

I use the heating element from a coffee maker. I regulate the temp with a PID, SSR, and a k type thermocouple. Spent maybe $30.

 It’s a shame this forum isn’t more active. I don’t do facebooks.

I'm probably going to have to pre heat my float tank.  I hear, if the temp gets below 40F, it's best to pre heat the float tank.  I haven't researched how to do it yet.  I'd like to see how you got yours wired and the parts you used.  What's a SSR?  Thanks.

Here's the Thomas 2660 vacuum pump that I use for the compressed air.

Everything looks blank in the pictures.  Do you have any lights when it is lighting or after it quits?

Sorry about the pictures.  The manual tells what all the lights do. But I got some more info from CK.

CK said to hook it up this way:  "limit gets 110v, L2 gets neutral. Solenoids go on the valve terminal. Motor terminals powers the motor AND ignition transformer. THE NOZZLE CANNOT SEE AIR PRESSURE UNTIL AFTER THE 15 SECOND PRE PURGE".

So the valve terminals are 110V, but like you said, will this supply enough current to run the vacuum pump?  And, if I hook it up the way he said, the ignitor will always be sparking when the blower motor is running, right?  I think he's saying, if you use the valve terminals to turn your air on, there will be a 15 second delay before the oil ignites, and that's what you want.  If the oil ignites before the 15 seconds, the burner shuts down, and that is what I have been experiencing.  I was plugging my vacuum pump in before the 15 second delay, and that's what caused it to shut down.  At least that's what I get out of what CK said.  What do you think?  Thanks.

In your case you don't have an air solenoid and you don't need one.  You would use a solenoid if you had a large compressor with an air tank.  That air tank would always have air in it and if you didn't have a solenoid, the air would continue to flow, even when the burner was shut off.  In your case, you are controlling the air flow by turning your vacuum pump on and off, eliminating the need for a solenoid.  So when CK says to connect your solenoid to the valve terminals, you could just connect your compressor there instead.  The question that I am unsure about is if the valve terminals supply 110V, and if they do, would they provide enough current to start and run your vacuum pump.  I will look at my setup tonight and see if my pump is powered directly from the primary control, or if I have some sort of relay installed, I cant remember.  But in the meantime you can certainly plug and unplug it as you need.  When you plug it in, it should be providing air to siphon the fuel.  And then if you have spark, you should have ignition.  Now, as to why it is shutting down shortly after it starts, it seems like a safety kicking in somewhere.  Do you have a display on your control that indicates what might be happening?

I don't have much of a display.  It's just a solid or flashing red light indicating a lock out condition.  But CK also said "7505b has a prepurge delay. Don't turn the air on until it does its 15 seconds prepurge.  It says it has a 15 second pre".  So I think he means, let it call for heat, the blower motor will turn on and the ignitor will start sparking, then I should wait 15 seconds to plug in the compressor.  But I thought if the ignitor sparks for 15 seconds it'll lock out.  I need to get out there and try it and see what happens.

I hooked up my ckburner kit for the 1st time.  I got it to light but the blower fan quits turning and the flame goes out shortly after.  Craig said something about the pre-purge/delay, and the air solenoid, but I don’t have an air solenoid.  Why is this happening?  What should I do?  Thanks.

What happens if you don't have an air solenoid on the air inlet?  I should get a NC (normally closed) one right?  And any advice on wiring it up?

I bought a 2660 vacuum pump, but it doesn't have a capacitor.  Any advice on finding the right capacitor for it?

Thanks