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Messages - ShopSpecialties

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76
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« on: March 12, 2019, 03:31:27 pm »
Looks like you have a Shenandoah burner put on a boiler that I have seen other mfg use. I would definitely due a burner rebuild and go with a 9-5 nozzle.

77
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« on: March 11, 2019, 10:52:24 pm »
I am not sure of the model. I don't think burner has been rebuilt and 6-8 yrs old. Been thinking of having that done this summer. Tried posting some pictures, but says files are to big.

Email the pics to me and we will see what you got. cleanburn406@gmail.com

78
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« on: March 11, 2019, 10:59:04 am »
I am burning a Shenandoah Waste oil boiler. I have tried to cut Motorcycle oil with diesel, but doesnt seem to help.
Its weird, but if I open the boiler door and rub a rag over the nozzle and electrodes, when I close it, it will fire right up. Maybe needs new electrodes? Maybe nozzle size, using 30609 -8? Electrode adjustment? I tried to attach a picture, not sure if it worked.

What model is the boiler ? When was the last time a burner rebuild was done ?

79
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 21, 2019, 07:40:41 pm »
The pump itself can suck air and at every fitting from it to whatever is at the end of the line. That is why I always keep the suction side short and simple with as few fittings as possible.

80
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 20, 2019, 06:23:24 pm »
Your Clean Burn dist should have these parts, #32061 screen $16.90 and #32021 check valve $22.90

The pump delivers the oil to the burner.

81
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 20, 2019, 08:50:04 am »
The pickup screen goes in the tank to stop the big chunks and the check valve screws onto it to keep the oil from draining back after the burner shuts off.

82
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 19, 2019, 07:38:40 pm »
Lets start off by getting a working oil gauge to help diagnose what exactly is going on. Then you can watch the gauge to see if it is a slow fluctuate or a sucking air bouncing up/down.

The Lenz filter is good and is there a 3/4" check valve and pickup screen ?

Obviously a burner rebuild would be high on that list also.

Start getting all these little things right then see if we can find a happy medium with the settings so it runs all the time with just small occasional touch ups. 

83
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 19, 2019, 09:10:46 am »
When the power is on the preheat block is always maintaining temp as determined by the adjustable block thermostat. The oil solenoid is BEFORE the preheat block so with this burner you will always have some fluctuation in oil pressure.

Your suction side plumbing is a mess with way to many connections where you could suck air. The spin-on filter is not necessary. Plumb it the way I showed you to ensure you are not sucking air and make cleaning the filters easy.

Yes, electrodes need to be adjusted properly.


84
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 18, 2019, 07:21:16 pm »
Oil gauges are cheap and easy to change.

Like I said in my previous post oil pressure will fluctuate on these old style burners due to the location of the oil solenoid. With cold oil you will have to turn up the pressure so it flows enough through the small holes in the oil solenoid. Then after that oil warms up it flows easy through the oil solenoid so your flame grows and you adjust your oil pressure down.

The more consistent temp you can keep your oil storage at the less the pressure will fluctuate. Also big changes in oil viscosity will have an effect on oil pressure.

85
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: February 18, 2019, 01:21:41 pm »
So last Fall when I recommended you do a burner rebuild and install a service kit did you do that ?

On these old style burners the oil solenoid is before the preheat block so as the oil gets warmer/cooler oil pressure will fluctuate. Also make sure you are not sucking any air and have a constant steady supply of oil to the burner.

86
Metering Pumps / Re: energylogic fuel pump
« on: January 23, 2019, 10:38:56 pm »
You can buy a new pump head that includes fittings, gauges and lines for about $240. This way there is no screwing around and just slap it on and go.

87
Metering Pumps / Re: energylogic fuel pump
« on: January 23, 2019, 12:22:01 am »
With a metered pump the speed of the motor determines the volume and PSI means little with this type of system. What are you trying to accomplish ? 

88
Welcome Center / Re: Hello from North Dakota
« on: January 15, 2019, 10:53:48 am »
When I do a burner rebuild I take the whole burner down and start with the slide gun. The slide gun gets stripped down to bare block and then solvent-gun cleaning brushes-ultra sonic cleaner until all passages are shiny on the inside. Same goes for nozzle holder, solenoid body and all fittings attached to the block. New nozzle, holder and solenoid orings get replaced every rebuild. Combustion air fan gets cleaned along with the housing. Retention head cleaned. Inspect/clean/adjust/replace electrodes as needed. While on the bench I plug in the igniter and combustion air motor to check spark.

A very common problem I find with all heaters is sucking air. People over complicate the suction side with multiple unnecessary fittings that have Teflon tape and loose.  I keep it simple to eliminate air leaks and to make it easy to disassemble for cleaning both filters at once. 

89
Welcome Center / Re: Hello from North Dakota
« on: January 14, 2019, 09:31:56 pm »
Hi, thanks for adding me. Just wanted to introduce myself. I live in the north eastern part of North Dakota and i am running a firelake 315. I am hoping to gain some knowledge here on how to keep this heater running properly. I bought a shop that had this heater installed previously and i am on my 4th winter running it. I feel i have to work on it more than i get to work on anything else in the shop during the winter so i'm hoping that i can find some answers here when i am down. Heater is running well as we speak but as you all know that can change...

Thanks

Tim

Hi Tim,
             I am over here in Montana and I can help you out. Lets start with when was the last time the burner was rebuilt ? On Shenandoah/Firelake I recommend burner rebuilds every 2-3 years as long as the power is turned off during the Summer. With a little time/patience I will get you all knowledge up and have that heater running good.

Duane

90
Did you get it figured out ?

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