Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.
Waste Oil Heater => Welcome Center => Topic started by: dannyo on December 23, 2020, 08:21:20 am
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I have a Cleanburn 1400. It has oil supply but no fire. I have changed the ignitor, checked electrodes. Done anyone have any advice?
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Oil quality ?
Clean nozzle ?
Spark is good shooting past the nozzle ?
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Oil is good / nozzle is clean.
No spark what so ever.
I have cleaned how the oil laying in the bottom.
Do you know if there is thread or check list to go over the electric?
As I said I replaced the ignitor, electrodes look good, contact points on the ignitor are clean.
Is there sensor that detects excessive oil or mist?
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Ok lets take it slow and simple.
No spark ? The easy way to check for spark is to lift the ignitor slowly while it is trying to fire to see if spark jumps to the electrodes.
Does the blue wire from the ignitor go to #7 on the wiring block or do you have an updated primary control to where 2 blue wires are wire nut together ?
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The blue wire is 7 and white is 1.
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Did you try lifting the ignitor to see if the spark would jump to electrodes ?
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I'll try that next.
Which wire should be hot?
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Blue
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Blue is 122 v when starting. I checked and adjusted the distance on the electrodes to nozzle and between.
Lifting ignitor there is an arc.
Should the white wire be 120v from ignitor when trying to fire?
Oil pressure is 3.25 psi / Air is 15 psi
it calls for 1.5 to 2.0 for oil psi.
Will the high oil pressure create this situation?
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The ignitor is producing spark so it is good. Next I would use an extendable inspection mirror through the inspection port to make sure the spark is not touching the nozzle or retention head. The spark should be shooting past the nozzle by at least a 1/2".
Was the heater working fine then you did something like fill the tank and it quit ?
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It was running, then quit and wouldn't restart.
I'll try the mirror. Thanks
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What does the Cad Cell do?
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The cad cell is what trips the reset. If it does not get a good look at the flame it shuts it down.
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No spark apparent with mirror.
If I’m getting 120 v on blue ,spark on igniter to electrode, could the electrode be bad?
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Ok let's pull the burner and put it on the bench so we can get a better look at it.
On the electrode is any of the porcelain broken causing the spark to ground out ? To bench test for spark I like to power up the ignitor and combustion air motor. I use an extension cord with alligator clips. This way you will easily see what your spark is like and adjust/replace accordingly.
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The burner swings out. If I lift up the ignitor i can attach the lead to the electrode.
This is where Im sure of myself. Is one side hot and the other ground?
If not please educate me.
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If you prefer you can just swing the burner out, I just find it easier on the bench. What you want to do is take the blue wire from the ignitor and the black wire from the combustion air motor #8 bottom row and tie those together to 1 wire on your extension cord. Then take the neutral wires from both of those items #1+#3 bottom and tie it to the other wire of your extension cord then plug into 110 volt outlet.
This will power up the ignitor and the combustion air motor will throw the spark out in front of nozzle.
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There is a spark on the electrodes and the motor runs.
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Is the spark shooting out in front of the nozzle ?
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Its more over the top of the nozzle.
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Is that with the combustion air motor running ?
Are the electrodes in good shape and adjusted properly ?
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Motor is running
I adjusted the electrodes per Cleanburn manual
The arc does not seem to be at the tips
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Ok there is your problem. With the burner swung open and both the ignitor and combustion air motor running you can easily see what the spark is doing.
Are the electrodes in good shape ?
Is the combustion air blower full of dirt and not blowing much air ?
Have you messed with combustion air setting ? When bench testing you can adjust your combustion air and watch your spark change.
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I have ordered an electrode it should be here today. The nozzle is clean.
When I get the electrode I will adjust the air and see what happens.
I will get back to you Thanks
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Replaced the electrode and set, good spark.
The furnace is trying to fire, a lot of smoke. Won't light.
Oil pressure is 3.5, calls for 1.5 to 2.
I'm not aware of an adjustment for this.
Could there be trash or restriction causing an increase in pressure?
How is the pressure regulated?
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Does your burner have 2 black knobs sticking up above the burner ? Right below they are labeled "oil" on the left and "air on the right ? The mount to the preheat block and those are your regulators.
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It only has one for air.
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Ok, so you have metered pump that delivers a set amount of fuel and is non-adjustable. Pressure readings do not mean much with this setup since it goes by volume.
What elevation are you at ?
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575’
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That is good, I just wanted to make sure you were not at high elevation. Set air at 12-14 PSI and start with combustion air 1/4 of the way open. After all the raw oil is burned off and flame is good and established you can dial in your combustion air setting.
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Ok thanks
If I want to check the oil mist or stream can I do it with jumpers like the electrode?
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As long as the nozzle is clean and you have a cloud in the firebox it should be fine. I have never felt the need to spray oil outside the box.
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Houston we have lift off. It fired up and leveled off after excess oil burnt off.
I assume the electrode was the issue.
Any advice setting the combustion air or air pressure?
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That is good to hear. Set air pressure 12-14 psi and leave it. Moving on to combustion air is something you will do by sight. If you close it down the flame should grow and be bright yellow. Then you want to open it back up and the flame should pull back and start to give you orange tips on your bright yellow flame.
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I really appreciate your help. If there is any thing I can do in the future let me know. I have a fair amount of experience with autos and trucks. Again thanks.