61
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: October 04, 2019, 07:05:11 pm »
What is your oil gauge reading ? Plugged nozzle ?
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62
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: October 02, 2019, 07:53:41 pm »
You are going to want to adjust combustion air to where you find a happy medium. The more you close it the longer and brighter the flame. Open it up and the flame is short and orange. Having it to much open also pushes more heat out the stovepipe. That combustion air also throws the spark out into the oil stream so you do not want to have it closed off to small either.
Watch your watch flame and slowly adjust it to see how the flame reacts. Also when you open your inspection door you are adding combustion air which will shorten your flame and then it will grow back when you close it. So you need to remember to account for that also.
Good to hear things are improving and getting better.
Watch your watch flame and slowly adjust it to see how the flame reacts. Also when you open your inspection door you are adding combustion air which will shorten your flame and then it will grow back when you close it. So you need to remember to account for that also.
Good to hear things are improving and getting better.
63
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: October 01, 2019, 09:44:29 am »
The flame should have a bright body with orange tips and no smoke coming out the stack.
Overfiring is when you have to much oil pressure and blowing smoke out the stack.
With this being some type of coal boiler and not a waste boiler I do not have a clue about the insulation. Is there a mfg nameplate on the boiler ? The insulation should definitely not be burning. Is it soaked in oil and the oil is burning off ?
Overfiring is when you have to much oil pressure and blowing smoke out the stack.
With this being some type of coal boiler and not a waste boiler I do not have a clue about the insulation. Is there a mfg nameplate on the boiler ? The insulation should definitely not be burning. Is it soaked in oil and the oil is burning off ?
64
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 30, 2019, 08:29:31 pm »
Put air at 12-14 PSI. Oil pressure 
? I would set oil pressure by looking at the flame if you have a viewport to make it easy. If you cannot see the flame then we play the guessing game.
The smoke could be from overfiring, plugged full of ash, bird nest in the stovepipe cap..........
? I would set oil pressure by looking at the flame if you have a viewport to make it easy. If you cannot see the flame then we play the guessing game. The smoke could be from overfiring, plugged full of ash, bird nest in the stovepipe cap..........
65
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 22, 2019, 03:44:08 pm »
Braze, solder or maybe try some JB-weld ?
66
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 22, 2019, 02:04:10 pm »
This is how I do every single one of mine.
Pickup screen - check valve - 3/4" black iron pipe - 3/4" street L - Lenz filter - 3/4"male to 1/2" female swivel - 1/2" hex nipple.
I am very picky about this part but you are close and on the right track. Also you should never use Teflon on the suction side. I use Loctite #2 gasket sealant because it sets and will not get pulled through the threads like Teflon can.
Pickup screen - check valve - 3/4" black iron pipe - 3/4" street L - Lenz filter - 3/4"male to 1/2" female swivel - 1/2" hex nipple.
I am very picky about this part but you are close and on the right track. Also you should never use Teflon on the suction side. I use Loctite #2 gasket sealant because it sets and will not get pulled through the threads like Teflon can.
67
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 22, 2019, 10:16:33 am »
The plumbing of the pump could have be simpler and better.
The big o-ring and white filter are for the air filter regulator. The flat rubber washer things are diaphragms for the air and oil regulators. You do not need to remove the pipe nipples from the solenoids just make sure you get them spotless on the inside.
That cad cell is fine.
The big o-ring and white filter are for the air filter regulator. The flat rubber washer things are diaphragms for the air and oil regulators. You do not need to remove the pipe nipples from the solenoids just make sure you get them spotless on the inside.
That cad cell is fine.
68
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 16, 2019, 07:36:04 am »
Yes, remove the C-clip and the electrical part slides off then you can remove the stem from the body.
69
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 15, 2019, 02:48:22 pm »
Nozzle holder o-ring.
Oil/Air solenoid o-rings.
Air filter regulator o-ring.
Oil/Air solenoid o-rings.
Air filter regulator o-ring.
70
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« on: September 14, 2019, 09:34:45 pm »
The Lenz filter is a stainless steel element you can clean up in the parts washer. You can run your oil line over the top to the burner.
When you go to disassemble the preheat block a little heat on the plugs and elements will help them come out easier. Use gun cleaning brushes and solvent to get the inside of the block spotless. When going back together use a medium strength threadlocker and tighten till snug.
When you go to disassemble the preheat block a little heat on the plugs and elements will help them come out easier. Use gun cleaning brushes and solvent to get the inside of the block spotless. When going back together use a medium strength threadlocker and tighten till snug.
71
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Burning heating oil in waste oil furnace
« on: April 05, 2019, 05:58:17 pm »
Maybe it is gelled bio-diesel or possibly his tank has fungus growth ? I would put it in a separate tote first to let it settle to see what ends up on the bottom. You can run straight diesel through that burner if you wanted to with zero issues.
I would do a burner rebuild first before running any diesel through it. If your preheat block is full of sludge/carbon the diesel will loosen it and you will be plugging nozzles constantly. After that just mix everything together at no special ratio and let it burn.
I would do a burner rebuild first before running any diesel through it. If your preheat block is full of sludge/carbon the diesel will loosen it and you will be plugging nozzles constantly. After that just mix everything together at no special ratio and let it burn.
72
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« on: March 22, 2019, 10:43:42 am »
There is a big difference between waste vegetable oil and waste petroleum based oil. With petroleum based oils you will have ash. The ash will be very fine powder like drywall dust and should be white to tan in color.
When commenting people need to clarify between the type oil and if they are using it for heat or fuel for your vehicle.
When commenting people need to clarify between the type oil and if they are using it for heat or fuel for your vehicle.
73
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« on: March 20, 2019, 04:40:15 pm »
Efficiency will be in the design of the firebox and the transfer of the heat to the shop. For example your Lanair has a poorly designed firebox so you have more heat going out the stack instead of being transferred into the room. Then obviously the more ash build up efficiency goes down as the heat goes out the stack.
The heavier the oil and the more it is broke down the higher the BTU content.
The heavier the oil and the more it is broke down the higher the BTU content.
74
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« on: March 20, 2019, 02:09:14 pm »
There will be no issues the oil and diesel will mix together.
75
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« on: March 12, 2019, 09:00:32 pm »Thanks for your input. I will get the rebuild done. Do I just ask for a 9-5 nozzle from a parts house?
There are places on Ebay that have nozzles for cheap. The nozzle holder o-rings should be replaced also. Inspect electrodes and replace as needed. Oil solenoid o-ring and possibly the plunger also replaced.