Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.
Waste Oil Heater => Welcome Center => Topic started by: craig16134 on February 05, 2013, 06:08:24 pm
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I recently built a gravity drip/forced air burner from a 100# propane tank and have had great results all around with it. I recently added a solenoid valve and thermo snap switches to control any over /under temp conditions. My only issue thus far would be that after running for a few hours the oil will slowly stop dripping completly. I currenty use a needle valve to control oil regulation any suggestions would be great!!! I can post some pics soon.
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Hmm, that is interesting that the oil stops flowing after it has been running for a while. Usually it is just the opposite. The oil will usually start flowing faster as the room and oil heat up because it gets thinner, which generates more heat, which thins the oil even more, and the process continues....
If you open the needle up does it start flowing again?
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Craig,
Does your oil supply line have a downward slope from the storage tank to the burner without any high spots to cause some kind of a vapor lock?
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Yes it does. From the oil tank it slopes down then wraps around the chimney pipe then down into burner. My oil tank is about 2 feet above the entire unit and holds 4.5 gals of oil. I currently use a 1/4 inch oil feed line and was thinking about bumpin that up to 3/8?? or using a larger holding tank at a higher level?? This one issue is the only thing holding me back from running it 24/7.
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When the oil flow is in the "stalled" state all I have to do is bump the valve up a little and oil flows good again until about an hour then the same stall of oil flow. I recently tore down the entire system and cleaned everything, found no junk or foreign material in anything. I will be able to post some pics this evening.
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Is your tank vented?
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yes it does.
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This is my set up.
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Wiring is still temp for now. Unit runs in auto mode great other than my stall problem,
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Have you tried a heat shield between your flue and needle valve? Is the needle valve made of brass?
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Not yet, but I will. Valve is made from 303 stainless with a buna seal.
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Door is made with a cam over pull latch from Zoro tools and hinges are HD Calmore 3/4" pin full swing.
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Craig,
The drip style heater creates a lot of interest. I'm suprized that more members haven't chimed in with there help. I haven't had any experience with a drip style heater. My only other suggestion would be to move the needle valve farther away from the heat. Nice looking set up, you have there. Hope the problem gets figured out, it's got to be some thing simple.
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Thanks Doug, I hope to have a chance to play with it this weekend.
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Well I have not been on here for awhile. Just wanted to say that after two years of burning my drip heater it still amazes anyone who sees it burn. I am currently working on an outdoor unit to heat my home and will post pics as soon as its complete. I love looking at everyone's projects on here!!!