Waste Oil Heater > User Projects & Pictures
waste oil heat for my shop
smichaelR22:
flew temp runs right about 180-200 after everything has settled and the exchanger fan on HI
id like to get it a bit hotter so the out going air is hotter with the same flow. im thinking a larger burn pot to maintain a clean burn with larger oil flow for more heat. its really working well though, so im probably going to finish up some insulation work and make improvements there before i go for more heat. only have about 15 more 4x4 pannels of 3" foam to go and the roof will be done finally.
smichaelR22:
oh, also after about an 8hr burn at full tilt, this is what i had left this morning when i went to clean out and start for the day. pretty good pile! was 9-10 gallons of WMO
Russ:
Sounds like you are pulling most all of the heat that you can out with that exchanger. Burn pot certainly has a lot of junk in there. Looks different form my boiler. Just white fine powder ash left. Must be the way it is burning. Hope your insulation keeps the shop nice and warm. Good luck with your project!
smichaelR22:
8 degrees F today in wonderful NY. should be a good run on the burner tonight. got another 25 gals of oil dropped off to my barn from a friend for free!
Oilburner:
Great setup with the stove and HE.
The amount of carbon you have left over is a Problem however. With a forced air burner you could have nothing but some white ash powder.
The residue indicated incomplete combustion. I could see that in the Vid as well. The flame tips appear to be smoking but the flame shape is wrong in any case. I would bet you HE tubes are caked with carbon as well. That would greatly reduce the amount of heat transfer you will get and become a cascading problem..... Or the carbon will light up and pretty much melt the stove and set everything around it alight.
You need to either increase the amount of air you are putting in if you want to keep the same output or reduce the oil flow which will reduce the output. Maybe not much if you burn all the fuel to completion.
I would also very strongly suggest a change in actual burner design.
Having swirl or turbulence in teh burn chamber is highly desirable for getting all the fuel and air to mic for a complete and clean combustion.
I would suggest entering the burn chamber from the top at an angle to spin it round in a whirlpool or to fire it straight down on itself. This will give some pre heat to the fuel and have the ligher fractions burning off as soon as it leaves the air pipe. It will be turbulent and blow back on itself a bit anyway which is good.
What you are doing now is also lacking retained heat in the burn pot. Might be a bit too light material but I suspect poor mixing or a too rich mixture is at work here. Again, You should have NO buildup at all, just a pinch of white ash. These heaters are best run oxygen rich for complete combustion. In this case you are clearly Fuel rich and getting incomplete Combustion which is not a good thing from a bunch of Viewpoints. You really want all the heat you can get with a shed that jealousy inspiring size and you want to get the most out the fuel you burn as well.
You might want to give your top drum HE a good few belts with a hammer on the tubes as well. Guarantee if you do you'll hear the carbon build-up falling off into the drum. You can run this with very cold flue Temps because if you get the combustion right, the temp won't matter because all You'll be exhausting is talcum powder. Wood fire flues get creosote because of Incomplete combustion and material condensing in the flue through Incomplete combustion. Not a problem you should have with oil properly burnt.
I strongly suggest you refine the actual burner a bit and then turn the thing right up and run it a bit oxygen rich to remove the built up carbon. The heat and efficiency potential of that stove and all the hard work you put in making it is being let down atm but fortunately it's an easy fix with a bit of tweaking.
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