Reznor ra235 ignition issues.

[fairbanksr6]

I have a ra235 that I have installed and I'm having trouble getting it to fire on its own.

 It fired once the very first time I finished the stack install. It wouldn't restart so I pulled the assembly and had a carbon bridge on the electrodes so I plucked it off. After lighting the one time it won't fire.

 So far I've adjusted the electrodes, cleaned the nozzle thoroughly, confirmed that the preheaters are hot and confirmed fog inside the chamber. I have confirmed via mirror that the electrodes gets a good arc and blows when the blower turns on. I've adjusted the gun position. The oil and air compressor pump aren't adjustable. I've talked with reznor support with no help. I can light it with a torch but will not light by itself even after letting it run and trying to restart warm after shutting down. I've changed the air band settings around from 0 to 4 on both and haven't set the draft regulator yet outside of the settings the reznor support suggested at initially 4. When I get it going with the torch it does puff white smoke out of the inspection door. I have not let it run for 5 minutes as I'm worried about doing damage.

 I haven't found much luck hiring an hvac company to come look at it due to COVID-19 and the one I did find with experience told me to call reznor support.

[ShopSpecialties]

Is the spark blowing out past the nozzle ?

What is the type and quality of oil ?

What is the temp of the oil in the tank ?

When you call Reznor you are just getting a person who is reading from the manual that has no real world experience.

[fairbanksr6]

It's blowing past the nozzle but more straight outand not down. I'd guess total length to be 3/4" long.

Used motor oil of unknown quality presumably fired ok previously. (Heater was purchased at auction and functional before being moved) was going to try a different source. Would a can of diesel be advised? I figured since I could light it with a torch and that it did fire itself the one time the oil was ok.

Oil in the storage tank is probably chilly. I haven't measured that but ambient temp in shop is 45 to 55 degrees temporarily heated to 62-65 degrees with a propane convection heater. (I've got two CO monitors working one via security system)

No way of knowing the tech support knowledge. He told me to clean the nozzle by taking it apart (two pieces) and that was about it. Hard to get a hold of. (Over an hr on hold) local HVAC advised to call them because "that's what we'd do and charge you $65 an hr anyway".

I have a draft but not measured. (It pulls smoke in to unit heater inspection door and at baro regulator) would too little draft have a no light situation. From the manual I can leave my air band and shutter at 0 and 2 respectively? Would this be an issue? I've tried to adjust both from 0 to 5 with no change. I did observe the arc with the head out and with the Airband open it blows it up away from the nozzle like too much air pressure. I have since turned it down other than try to adjust the flame once lit and an I'm out of my element there. Will likely try to find someone experienced to adjust with instruments but figured one problem at a time.


I should add that outside temps are 32-55 degrees and my altitude is 3020'.

[ShopSpecialties]

I have been doing nothing but waste oil heater sales/service for 30 years. I am here to help but we need to start with the small simple things and work our way up.

For right now put the air band setting to factory spec and leave it.

As long as the spark is not arcing to the nozzle and is blowing past it we are good.

The nozzle is actually 3 pieces the small jet just sits on the stem and can be easily removed. Is there any carbon buildup inside the stem of the nozzle or jet ? If so a burner rebuild needs to be done. When putting the nozzle back together always hold it upright otherwise you will smash the end of the jet.

Does the tank have a drain ? If so, open it to check for water and or antifreeze.

Reznors have a poor preheater assembly. So make sure the actual temp of the oil in the tank is at least 50*.

Lets start with this then we can move on to other things.

[fairbanksr6]

No carbon built up on the nozzle. Went back together ok.

Drained water off the bottom previously over a couple days. (Maybe 2 gallons) I've had waste oil heaters before so knew enough to do that just never had to trouble shoot it. Was a clean burn and already installed.

Do I need to add a magnetic tank heater to insure above 50⁰? I've never had to do that although once the heater gets going reliably it may not be necessary.... it's a reznor single wall indoor 250gal tank and stand.

Thank you for the help and experience.

[ShopSpecialties]

You do not need a tank heater if you keep the shop temp at 50*+.

Light it off with the torch again and get all the raw fuel burned out. It is going to huff/puff for a bit depending on how many times you pushed the reset.

After all the raw oil is burned off look at the condition of the flame.

[fairbanksr6]

For sure once it's reliable it will stay above 50⁰.

I'm locked into this as primary heat source. (Rented building)
I'm not opposed as my previous shop was 100% reliable for years.

I will let it run for longer on stock air settings to see what it looks like.

Is there a good estimate of what the baro regulator should be? I'm know it changes as it gets up to temp and I should wait for that. I was just worried about the puffs of smoke coming out of the inspection port and a back fire situation.

[ShopSpecialties]

Reznor are not the most reliable heater. The 235 was discontinued like 6 years ago. Rumor also has it that Nortek Global the owner of Reznor put an end to waste oil heaters in October.

Adjust the barometric damper so it stays closed.

[fairbanksr6]

I don't doubt that. I have tried playing my case about it. Only reason I put up with it so far with the landlord is cheap rent 6 month lease. Downside is that he's older and not experienced. He purchased at auction and with the work I've done so far he's married to it now. I was going to just buy a NG heater and have them run a line but he's opposed to that so now I'm married to it.

[fairbanksr6]

Ok fired it up and let it go for around 5 min. Getting smoke the whole time. Did not have very much raw oil in chamber. Cleaned it ran it and tried once to restart. Airband and shutter settings are 0 and 2 respectively as per manual. Still getting puffs back through the inspection port. Tried to open the airband to a 1 and getting big puff back through baro damper and inspection door and shuttering. Shut down after that.
 What the hell am I doing wrong? I've never felt this incompetent. I've rebuilt my duramax engine and it wasn't this frustrating.

[ShopSpecialties]

Does the flame have a bright body with orange tips ?

Is the flame steady or does it spit and sputter ?

[fairbanksr6]

I would say bright body. Fills the whole chamber and hits the target. I have a decent draft when off. IE pulls the regulator open sometimes even set on max.(6.5)

Didn't sputter until I tried opening the airband and then started shuttering and puffing smoke out of inspection door and even the damper.

Did smoke heavily the whole 5 min which is why I tried opening the airbanda bit.

[ShopSpecialties]

What is your altitude ?

[fairbanksr6]

3016' +/-100'

Box elder, SD 57719, USA

[ShopSpecialties]

Trying to figure out if the smoke is from running rich, firebox needs cleaned, or burning off excess oil.

There is 2 pump motors available, 0-3,000' elevation then 3,000' and above.

Is it smoking outside out the stack ?