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Welcome Center / Re: Hello from Ireland
« Last post by Russ on March 21, 2019, 09:31:18 pm »
Sounds like a nice setup with your Buderus.  Doug on the forum has one and I really like it, but have yet to find one for sale in my area.  My current Burnham has the swing open door as well.  Very handy for sure!  And good use of your old boiler as a backup.  Id love to see pictures of the new boiler if you get a chance.


Welcome Center / Re: Hello from Ireland
« Last post by philly on March 21, 2019, 04:18:04 pm »
Thanks Russ,
Running for over 4 years now. My next mod is to make it easier for cleaning out the ash. I have to pull out the burner and then remove it's mounting plate to gain access to the lower part of the boiler. I plan to make the burner mounting plate into a door on hinges so that it swings open with the burner in place. Also it will be very handy if I just want to inspect the nozzle and spark electrodes.
To help with the cleaning I got my hands on a good quality ''Buderus'' cast iron boiler which has a large door which the WO burner mounts on. To clean the chambers I only need to remove 2 X bolts and open the door fully. The burner does not need to be removed for this task as it swings back with the door opening. I reinstated the original boiler with it's regular diesel burner and made a control circuit which brings on the diesel burner automatically should the waste oil burner cut out. I also wired a small neon lamp in my house which will illuminate should a fault occur. with the WO burner.
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by HT32B-SX115 on March 21, 2019, 01:08:24 pm »

None of these burners take a liquid to a gas. They atomize with pressure or air. I do have a vaporizer,  a different set of rules.

Flue up and out as quickly as possible is good.
True statement!  Waste oil is so full of contaminants that it produces a LOT of ash that must be cleaned out periodically. 

There is no way you can use the same techniques that is used in +90 gas/propane furnaces.
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by u1100l on March 21, 2019, 08:36:47 am »
If the gas Spa boiler dosen't melt down a create a nice hot fire it will soot and plug up first. Then catch fire.Take effeiciency and throw it out the window.

Venting through PVC..No! At any temp.
These burners need Draft. Keep boiler warm=better burn and draft. Honeywell 6006 @180 10-20 degree diff.

Secondary air has little bearing on eliminating soot, making a clean flame. Something else going on. Tight chamber. Remember Chris Farley? Fat guy little coat.

None of these burners take a liquid to a gas. They atomize with pressure or air. I do have a vaporizer,  a different set of rules.

Flue up and out as quickly as possible is good. (Durvent All Fuel) Would rather keep flue WARM Not HOT for decent draft. Remember a cold colum of air is dense and dosen't like to move.

Outside air only if the building is very tight, then must be warmed.

Kaowool can be your friend in a cleaner burn with a boiler. Depending what boiler is chosen.

Get a clean burn, good draft and don't overthink it.
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by Oilburner on March 21, 2019, 07:59:28 am »

I am converting a Gas spa boiler to oil to heat my home this winter. I think as is it was around 80% efficient.  The exhaust isn't cool enough to duct though PVC but it's not exactly 500oC either.  the heat exchanger is substantial and close finned and I don't really expect the efficency to be any worse on oil.

I see a lot of people using draft burners on YT and they favour them for the stand alone ability.  I have built a few and just done another Huge one as a yard heater to try and keep the frost away this winter. The major difference I see between the draft and the forced air type burners I prefer is the forced air type can be set up to have such an excess of air and produce such a hot flame, there is no soot or build up at all.

I can run 30L of oil through my burners and when I shut them down and let them cool, there is a tiny bit of powdery fine ash in the bottom and the rest of the burner is totally clean. You could literally do the white glove test in the burner and on any flue and it would be clean.

With the draft type, no matter how much secondary air I give them, there is always soot buildup.

I have not done much with spray type burners as favoured by commercial burners. I would think that as they basically have a suspended flame they should burn completely clean but I also read of the need to clean them so maybe not?
The spray burner I built ran totaly clean but it also depended on heat phase change where the oil was sprayed into a very hot chamber in operation which also helped the phase change from a liquid to a gas for combustion.
I have often though if there were some bricks placed in teh fire box of these commercial burners so there is a hot surface close to the combustion to help secondary combustion if that would help? Any soot to me is imperfect combustion even if one can't see smoke.

Another thing I see which puzzles me is many people seem to want to duct the flue out of a building as fast as possible. Instead of poking the the flue outside a wall and then up to the roof, one would be doing well to keep as much of the flue inside the building so it could radiate heat into the space desired to be heated rather than the the surrounding outside environment.

The less efficient the HE is the more heat out the chimney, the more can be gained by keeping as much as possible inside. The flue itself is a HE as it will transfer heat so the more one utilizes that, the better overall efficiency their heater will have.
When I put a heater in my shed I intend to put the heater at the back and run the flue all the way to the front before ducting it out the building.

Another thing I intend to do is have an outside cold air duct for combustion air.  On an unsealed building you are pulling cold air in and sending hot air up the flue.  Bu pulling the cold combustion air from outside, one should be in fact able to create a positive pressure in the building buy expanding the cold air rather than a negative pressure cold air is always always going to be drawn to. If one had a blower of sufficient size and ducted some air onto the heating unit so as to warm it, again the building would be pressurized with warm air which would have to help efficiency and eliminate cold Drafts.

Siphon Nozzle / Re: Flame ring and jet style
« Last post by u1100l on March 21, 2019, 07:52:05 am »
Isn't that one of the burnerswith the heated oil tank on the right. Float switch, heating element(s)..??

Stinkin' fire hazzard!
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Types of oil
« Last post by Oilburner on March 21, 2019, 07:05:38 am »

My guess is it comes down to the oil itself.
Diesel oil is lighter than regular engine oil.  Trying to think with diesel is chasing ones tail as diesel is not that thin itself.
A far better thinner is Kero or turps.  Much lower viscosity even though diesel seems pretty thin in comparison.
I do not recommend petrol as the vapors can fill a tank and have undesirable results.

One solution may be to take a leaf out of the Veg oil Vehicle book.  Add a second small start up tank with thinned oil or Diesel and fire the burner up on that. Once it has a bit of heat, change over to the regular fuel oil.

As far as stratification goes, I have never seen it in properly mixed oils.  I have done tests in fridges and freezers and never seen it but there are many types of oil and I don't know what the long term effects are if one lives in some frozen winter hell hole.

May people take blending to be like trying to mix oil and water but it's not. There is no reason on a molecular level that the oils will separate but particles certainly could.
Depending on the oil used, any dissolved water can cause problems.  nit usualy a problem with mineral oils/ Fuels but certainly can be an issue with veg oil.
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by u1100l on March 20, 2019, 06:44:59 pm »
Nope, not checking your math. Sounds good to me.
Siphon Nozzle / Re: Flame ring and jet style
« Last post by u1100l on March 20, 2019, 06:37:27 pm »
The Bairan is sold as a Multi-oil burner.  However, the top pic retention head seems to be a better choice for light oil. If you switch to waste oil might run the head in pic 2. Air adjustment on burner should not be that extreme when changing heads.
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on March 20, 2019, 04:40:15 pm »
Efficiency will be in the design of the firebox and the transfer of the heat to the shop. For example your Lanair has a poorly designed firebox so you have more heat going out the stack instead of being transferred into the room. Then obviously the more ash build up efficiency goes down as the heat goes out the stack.

The heavier the oil and the more it is broke down the higher the BTU content.   
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