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11
Waste Motor Oil / Can't think of a title?
« Last post by u1100l on March 23, 2019, 05:55:20 pm »
None of this is for a hobby or should be taken lightly. To see a big flame shoot out of a tube powered by WO or even WVO and say I can heat my... whatever, is reckless to say the least. The WO salamander heater I'm speechless.

It takes alot to get these to run properly. Please be careful. They will run away when you least expect it.
Waste oil holding/heating tanks,sketchy at best and should not be sold.

Don't cheap-out on Safety controls, limits, aquastats, heat exchangers.
The "burn what ever you want"  is wrong.  They do not self adjust to different oils.

Because making a flame in a drum dosen't mean you can put it in a heating appliance.
To do that is another set of rules.

A good 80% of these burners will burn down your house is second. The false information that goes along with them and the false sense of security is of great concern.

No new mouse traps have been made.  Be careful and pay attention.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by u1100l on March 23, 2019, 02:24:43 pm »
Alright, alot here for constructive critisim to say the least.

Need photos way to much and all over the place.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by Oilburner on March 23, 2019, 02:43:15 am »

There is a big difference between waste vegetable oil and waste petroleum based oil.

No, sorry, when burnt properly and completely in burners there is no difference except WMO produces a bit more Ash than WVO but essentialy there is no difference at all.... IF burned properly and completely.


Quote
With petroleum based oils you will have ash. The ash will be very fine powder like drywall dust and should be white to tan in color.

The ash, If burned completely, is no different with mineral oil or with Veg oil. I can't actually thing of ash from anything not being grey-white  Wood, coal, Plastic....

If you do not burn something completely you can get residues but both Veg and mineral oil produce black carbonaceous material in the mid phase before it is burned completely and turned to ash.
This is a problem with draft type burners as they only get the oil hot enough to burn off the surface vapors and once the lighter fractions have been consumed there is insufficient heat to burn off the left over carbon. this is why those burners need cleaning where the forced air type with an oxygen rich atmosphere and much turbulence of the flame front resulting in the burn chamber running at hotter temps burn off all the residuals.

Quote
When commenting people need to clarify between the type oil and if they are using it for heat or fuel for your vehicle.

Given i'm the only one I can see mentioned a Vehicle, I take it that comment was directed at yours Truly.
Seemed clear enough to me I was talking about burners and only made a comparison to vehicles.
In any case, there is NO difference.

Have poor combustion in a burner, you'll soot it up. Run it clean, no deposits and maybe minimal ash if you have poor drafting in the flue or minimal turbulence in the burn chamber. From what I have seen of commercial gun type burners they run minimal excess air for efficiency ( not heating excess air) but this does not bode well for removing deposts.

If you have poor combustion in an engine on WVO or WMO or even Diesel, you will get buildup and deposits which will build up on the ring lands, stop the rings expanding and it's a fast demise from there.
With clean combustion there is no problem. The fuel is burnt in suspension as it should be completely and the ash is exhausted.  Over fueling, ( rolling coal/ Smoking) is incomplete combustion. On diesel which has virtually zero ash production, it's not so much of a problem unless the engine is driven for long periods over fueled. With WVO or WMO, it's a BIG problem.

There is a way around it though in a vehicle at least, Water injection.
Have been using this over 10 years and put many others onto it and there is no question of it's effectiveness.  It basically steam cleans the engine internals and dislodges any buildup and prevents any happening.  Any deposits are exhausted out the tail pipe and it is my belief that even the tail pipe itself is cleaned out due to performance increases remaining even after WI is no longer being used ( dry water tank) .

 It does not need to be sprayed into a Diesel in Micro fine droplets, even a rough stream up the inlet tract a ways will disperse itself Sufficiently and flash to steam in the combustion chambers. This is actually a form of cavitation and is useful in the cleaning process. I believe droplets for CLEANING purposes are more effective than vapor like mists.
In a vehicle Methanol not only adds significantly to the power output but the cleaning effect of WI.

There is no reason why WI would not work in some Burners depending on the setup.  Given the " Tuneability" of a burner and the fact it is usually running at one output, the better solution would be to correct the incomplete burning in the first place. Any deposits are a sign of inefficiency and wasted fuel.
Depending on the burner, an injection of water into the combustion chamber will have the same steam cleaning effect.  This is/was used in ships that burned bunker oil to fire steam boilers and it is used in piston engines to keep them clean.
In steam boilers the water is injected to keep deposits off the steam tubes and the internal passages clear. The oil they burn has a LOAD of ash content so is far more prone to leaving deposits as it is harder to get perfect combustion and good efficiency at the firing rates they use. 

While I have not tried WI in burners/ boilers, my thoughts are that any deposits removed will not be burnt ( NO, water does not separate into oxygen and hydrogen and burn unless it is introduced to the sort of heat found in a Nuclear Fuel fire) but merely dislodged or suspended and WILL end up somewhere.  Wether that is out of the burn chamber but somewhere in the flue or wether it is ejected from the flue completely would be the question and again depend greatly on the turbulence and speed of the exhaust gas stream from the burner/ boiler and it's stack temperature. Certainly if the temp in any part of the Flue, particularly the boundary layer was below about `120oC, I would expect to see deposits of material.
That in itself may not be a big concern as nearly all Chimneys need cleaning and if the interval is infrequent enough and the cleaning quick and easy enough, why worry?

The only thing coming out of a Burner should be the white/ grey ash no matter what fuel it is burning.
if there is any black/ soot, the thing is not running properly.

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Welcome Center / Re: Hello from Ireland
« Last post by u1100l on March 22, 2019, 02:55:50 pm »
What model Buderus are you running? 
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Drip System / Re: first draft of outdoor WMO furnace--What do you think?
« Last post by u1100l on March 22, 2019, 10:58:54 am »
Nope, I got that wrong. No claim denied coverage.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by u1100l on March 22, 2019, 10:55:11 am »
OK what did I miss?
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on March 22, 2019, 10:43:42 am »
There is a big difference between waste vegetable oil and waste petroleum based oil. With petroleum based oils you will have ash. The ash will be very fine powder like drywall dust and should be white to tan in color.

When commenting people need to clarify between the type oil and if they are using it for heat or fuel for your vehicle.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Collecting/Transporting Drain oil
« Last post by u1100l on March 22, 2019, 10:22:14 am »
Got my interest, neither pressure or air atomization. Please educate me. Seems like you built a better mouse trap.

Your not in the States are you?
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste oil spill... What a mess!
« Last post by Oilburner on March 22, 2019, 01:32:10 am »

You haven't had a real oil spill till you loose 200L in one go.

For clean up, I use KOH or NAOH. it's available at commercial cleaning places in 25KG bags. it's the concerntrate of soap basically.

If the oil is pooled I get it up with a  squeege or a wet and dry vac. Doesent have to be all gone and I'm not too fussy with it.
I then spray the area down with water then sprinlkle on the KOH. Best not to use bare hands, it WILL take the skin clean off. You will feel it burn like no tomorrow as well.  Once the KOH is sprinkled round, broom the powder around and mix it with the oil and water. You'll get a creamy substance which is then soap.  I like to let it all sit a while and then come back about every 5 Min and broom over again and add more KOH if need be. If' it's hot spray more water without it running off to keep it wet. After about 15 Min broom over and hose off.

You concrete will be cleaner than when you started with veg and only have a light stain with diesel oil. that is fouls stuff indeed. I don't think there is really any way to clean that off, it soaks into the cement itself and always leaves a stain.

Best thing I found to get rid of the stain if you have to is mix up a think cement mix and spread it over the affected area then sweep it off when dry.  doesent' get the stain out, just covers it back up to the regular cement colour.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Outdoor wood boiler conversion
« Last post by Oilburner on March 22, 2019, 01:21:08 am »

A " Hybrid" wood burner would work.
You could NOT just dump an amount of oil every so often. The oil would want to flash to vapor and there would not be enough air and the thing would smoke like a bitch and then probably over heat the boiler before dying down to nothing again.

The way to do it would be to Pump the fuel in a controlled and relatively constant manner. If the thing has a thermostat, then trigger  an amount of oil when heat is required and shut off when not.

You do not need ( or probably want) some superfine mist, anything that is better than a direct stream would be fine. A bit of flattened copper tube would be fine.  Spraying the oil on the coals/ wood will do the rest.

I would use either a Diaphragm pump like the little 4l/hr caravan type water pumps or the larger fuel pumps.  A gear pump would be good but I have not yet seen one capable of handling oil with any longevity. I make my own pumps using engine oil pumps and scooter motors and I literally pump 10's of thousands of liters with them over years without problem.

You could have 2 or more squirters on the pump to spread the oil around on the fire and just " tune" the output to the firing rate you wanted.

If you wanted to do away with the wood all together, just build a forced air type burner and it it in the fire box of the boiler.  I'm doing one for a spa heater and it will simply be a 2 Step. Idle when heat is not requires and ramp up to full power ( whatever I set that up at) and then back to idle.
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