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1
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on February 21, 2019, 07:40:41 pm »
The pump itself can suck air and at every fitting from it to whatever is at the end of the line. That is why I always keep the suction side short and simple with as few fittings as possible.
2
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ajparry89 on February 21, 2019, 07:25:07 am »
Great, thanks for the help!

Ok, so the only place for it to be sucking air would be between the pump and the tank, correct?
3
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on February 20, 2019, 06:23:24 pm »
Your Clean Burn dist should have these parts, #32061 screen $16.90 and #32021 check valve $22.90

The pump delivers the oil to the burner.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ajparry89 on February 20, 2019, 01:22:16 pm »
Ok, that I do not know, I have not pulled the line out, but I am pretty sure no, because it is just copper tubing going down into the tank.   where should i get one of those?

question, does the oil furnace itself actually suck the oil, or is it just the pump doing the work of sucking out of the tank/pumping to the furnace? 
5
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on February 20, 2019, 08:50:04 am »
The pickup screen goes in the tank to stop the big chunks and the check valve screws onto it to keep the oil from draining back after the burner shuts off.
6
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ajparry89 on February 20, 2019, 07:04:27 am »
I do not see a check valve or a pick-up screen.   is the pick-up screen separate from that filter?  would the check valve be in the line somewhere? - if so, then i dont see one.    just copper tubing into that filter, then into the motor, then into the spin filter, then over to the furnace.   

7
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on February 19, 2019, 07:38:40 pm »
Lets start off by getting a working oil gauge to help diagnose what exactly is going on. Then you can watch the gauge to see if it is a slow fluctuate or a sucking air bouncing up/down.

The Lenz filter is good and is there a 3/4" check valve and pickup screen ?

Obviously a burner rebuild would be high on that list also.

Start getting all these little things right then see if we can find a happy medium with the settings so it runs all the time with just small occasional touch ups. 
8
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ajparry89 on February 19, 2019, 01:48:51 pm »
Awesome, thank you for the information shopspecialties! 

Ok so are you saying, that it is normal that i continually 'manually' adjust the oil pressure by turning the external knob?  I get it that the oil pressure will fluctuate.  but i feel like it fluctuates to the point that causes it to trip off.  is that normal?  or do i just need to be standing by all the time to correct it?  I guess what im asking is, if this was running ok, should it run all by itself for days without needing tweaked? 

Ok, I will work on the plumbing, and eliminate that spin filter, and redo the lines, and adjust the electrodes.   

does the other filter look right?   is there something else that you would recommend? 
9
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on February 19, 2019, 09:10:46 am »
When the power is on the preheat block is always maintaining temp as determined by the adjustable block thermostat. The oil solenoid is BEFORE the preheat block so with this burner you will always have some fluctuation in oil pressure.

Your suction side plumbing is a mess with way to many connections where you could suck air. The spin-on filter is not necessary. Plumb it the way I showed you to ensure you are not sucking air and make cleaning the filters easy.

Yes, electrodes need to be adjusted properly.

10
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil pressure regulator
« Last post by ajparry89 on February 19, 2019, 06:49:08 am »
Ok.  I understand initially that the pressure will need adjusted as the oil heats up inside the block.  but then after that, mine still constantly needs adjusted.  or it just shuts off.   i use it when I am going to be away for a day or more.  I get it running fine well before I am leaving, like 12-24hrs before hand it works the whole time before i leave.  but then when i come back home i find it tripped off and the house is cold - thankfully no broken pipe situations yet haha.   when i come back home, i turn it back on, and usually it fires up fine - maybe a slight adjust of oil pressure initially, but it works fine.  So i am trying to find out why it keeps tripping off, so it can become something a little more reliable.   

You think it may be a viscosity issue?  My oil is stored inside, in the furnace room.  if its a viscosity issue, then i cant do anything about that.   

what about this filter, pictured?  I was told that as long as the gauge didnt get into the red then i didnt need to do anything.  but the gauge has never moved in two winters, so i wonder if that is even working.  should this filter be replaced?  cleaned?  removed? (I also have a large spin on filter in the line - are two filters necessary?)

Next question, last week I took the nozzle off to clean it, and i must have bumped the two points (whatever exactly they are called, im not sure, the two points where the spark arks across) because it wouldnt fire after that.  So i pushed them a little closer, and then they worked.    Is there a way to measure or know if they are set right?  or as long as its sparking and igniting the flame,  is that good enough? 

thanks for your help shopspecialties, and anybody else!
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