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Temp Controllers and Thermocouples / Beckett 7505 burner control
« Last post by DJ1969 on April 14, 2020, 12:53:33 pm »
I think my burner control shot craps.  Does anyone know Beckett burner controls?
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: I need some ideas
« Last post by Russ on March 16, 2020, 08:38:09 pm »
I cant remember the differences, but this is a recommended one for waste oil and are often times used for metering pumps as well:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-A2RA-7710-Single-Stage-Oil-Pump-3450-RPM

I'm not saying they wont, but I don't think the stock pumps are designed for pumping waste oil.  I ran my pressure system for a long time and never had any problems with whatever was on it.

Sounds like you have some perfecting to do to keep your fuel line hot.  Hopefully you can find a way to keep it warm and keep the flame running smooth as well.

Keep up the good work!
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: I need some ideas
« Last post by Parkland on March 14, 2020, 09:54:33 am »
Do becket burner fuel pumps tend do do alright pumping waste oil?
I took my nozzle off yesterday when I was experimenting with a larger one, and noticed a very small amount of what look like microscopic fillings in the threads where it screws in. Very tiny and small amount. Might be from changing nozzles so many times just the thread friction?
The oil is clean and warm to the touch, the bronze sintered filter on the nozzle is spotless, and the pressure output of the pump is just under 100psi where it's always been, so nothing wrong with anything just curious.
I'd think a pump would last forever pumping oil but just wanted a second opinion.

Also I've been running the stock unmodified becket burner and realized that the rumbling noise it makes is the flame backfiring into the burner tube which heats the line, so when I adjust things to run smooth, the backfire no longer heats the line and goes out, so I'll need to heat the fuel line inside the burner tube somehow.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: I need some ideas
« Last post by Russ on March 08, 2020, 11:28:55 am »
If you are running a stock beckett, I would highly recommend a CK kit:
http://ckburners.com/kits.html

Yes, it costs some money, but once you have it you will be burning WMO so easily that the all of the free fuel will pay for it in no time.

Yea, ceramic wool might be a good option as well, but I think the brick would come up to temp pretty quickly as well.  Might have to experiment with both.

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Waste Motor Oil / Re: I need some ideas
« Last post by Parkland on March 07, 2020, 05:28:36 am »
It's a stock beckett.
It definitely needs some kind of heat. Like I said that line heater looked good but only 12 watts of output, so only good for the start up
.
Has anyone ever put an induction heating coil around the fuel tube in the burner? They seem cheap and might work great but I've never used one.

I had considered fire brick , but thought it would take too long to warm up so the ceramic wool might be better but not sure if it would hold up so I'm just not sure.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: I need some ideas
« Last post by Russ on March 07, 2020, 12:13:02 am »
Greetings and welcome to the forum Parkland!

Are you running your becket stock?  If so, have you looked at the CK burner modification?  With preheated oil, you should have instant starts with WMO.

I think you are on the right track with needing something to contain or shoot the fire on to.  From what I understand any kind of steel will break down pretty quick.  Fire brick might be a good option.

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Waste Motor Oil / I need some ideas
« Last post by Parkland on March 06, 2020, 08:51:57 pm »
Need some ideas...
I've been running waste oil in my oil furnace in the garage
 It's a becket burner furnace. I'd either start it on diesel then switch to waste oil, or if I left waste oil in it I'd need to warm up the pump and burner to get it to start. It burned very well, no smoke or smell.
However, I started reading about how waste oil burns with a longer flame and may hit the back of the combustion chamber, so i looked inside and yes the combustion chamber was degraded badly at the back.
So, I removed the burner, and tossed the furnace, and built a boiler to install the burner in.

The boiler tank is 12 inches wide, 42 inches deep, and 72 inches high. The fire box inside is 8x8 inches and about 40 inches deep. Flues are 6 square tubes 1.5x1.5 from the rear of fire box up.
It is made from 1/8 inch plate and tubing.

Now the problems...
I need to figure out a combustion chamber of some kind, so the flame burns hotter and cleaner. It runs but the exhaust out chimney is either black from not enough air, or hazy and smelly.

Also, I need a way to heat the fuel line so that I don't have to manually warm it up to start it. I found online that beckett sells a line heater, but it seems small and not enough to keep it hot enough.

I tried the burner with and without the retention head, it doesn't seem to change anything.

Should I try to make a combustion chamber with fire clay? Steel? Ceramic wool? Not sure what would actually last.
 
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: homemade WMO conversion for wood stove
« Last post by Oilburner on March 02, 2020, 09:04:19 pm »
I guess what I am asking is there anything I should try before I rip this POS out and go back to burning wood?

Oil has a learning curve.  It requires heat to work.  Most people get the burners started then freak out the flames are too big and shut it down when they sould keep it going, let it heat up and settle and go from there.

Getting oil to burn is not the trick, controlling it is.  If you are not getting enough heat, it comes down to two things and 2 things only:
 1. You have too much air for the amount of oil you are burning.
2. You don't have enough oil flow.

The 3rd is a combination of both.

If you have control of the air and the oil flow then you can do anything basically. You can have a small gentle fire or you can have a clean burning raging inferno.  It's just a matter of balancing the two.  You have to learn how to read the fire.  Having too much oil will also make a fire burn cold. You want the oil to change from a liquid to a gas. It's gas that burns not wet stuff. For that to happen you want the burn chamber to be at very least 350oC for engine oil.

Hard to say without seeing any pics of your setup but Rather than force the air down onto the opil pool which largely cools it, I like to have the air spin around the  bowl it's burning in unless one has a very tall vessel that the fire will heat as it escapes and transfers the heat back to the oil pool. Having a tall vessel also allowed the pipe with the incoming air to be preheated which helps a lot. I also feed the oil into the air pipe so it also has a chance to preheat to a gas at least boiling off the more volatile components in it which means it is burning as soon as it exits the pipe and imparts more heat to the burn vessel.  Spinning the fire also sends it outwards to the heater in this case to warm it up

One thing i see a LOT of people do which puzzles me is they duct the flue out of the building as soon as possible.  In a shed the best thing to do is run that flue from one end to the other inside the space you want to heat. There is a lot of energy and a lot of surface area to transfer the heat to the air in there and it increases efficiency dramatically. Throwing all the heat straight out to atmosphere is stupid really. The longer you can keep it in the building to radiate the warmth you are doing the whole exercise for, the better.

If you are not getting enough heat, simply turn up the burn. You may have to increase your air and oil rate but that should be no big deal.
If you can see in your burn chamber and there is very little oil or the fire goes out or drops within 10 seconds of shutting the oil off, you are probably running lean or too much air.  If you shut the oil off and the thing continues to burn pretty much the same for the best part of a minute or more, you are too rich.  Smoke can indicate this but I can also have a litre of oil sitting in a burner and the fire will burn perfectly clean because all the vapors are being mixed with enough air at the top.

Don't ever doubt oil doesen't have enough power. I'm building a waste oil powered spa heater to heat the home with and my biggest trouble is keeping the output down to 20KW ore less.  If I wanted to do 200KW which is what most Olympic size pool heaters are here, I could do that with great ease and ramp it up to 500KW VERY easily.  5-10 Kw is going to keep most homes hot let alone cosy once the place is up to speed so it just comes down to burning enough oil to provide the heat you need.
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User Projects & Pictures / Re: waste oil heat for my shop
« Last post by Russ on February 27, 2020, 08:51:09 pm »
It sounds like you found a winning combination.  Cheap heat! 
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User Projects & Pictures / Re: waste oil heat for my shop
« Last post by smichaelR22 on February 27, 2020, 05:23:53 pm »
300+gals burned this winter thus far.   i filled in some insulation holes and I'm at about 35F degrees over outside temp in 2 hours in a 36x60x14-21' height shop, only the roof insulated with 3" foam board- the rest metal walls, wood floor 11' over earth foundation.   

still super happy and i think i wont change much for next year.  way better than a propane bill! 

all free oil delivered to me from 4x4 buddies and work people.  winning. 


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