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1
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by acarter on January 07, 2018, 06:28:26 pm »
Well, I used the new diaphragm pump for the first time yesterday. Much better than the old gear mesh pump. Oil and air temp was around 20 degrees F, pumping through a screen filter and hydraulic filter I probably get about 2gpm, unrestricted (no filter) probably closer to 5gpm. I'm happy with that, in the warm weather I'm sure it will get close to the rated 12gpm...

Austin
2
Drip System / first draft of outdoor WMO furnace--What do you think?
« Last post by 46farmallM on January 02, 2018, 09:49:03 pm »
Hello all, I am new here and I have a prototype idea for an outdoor oil furnace, the drawing is attached. I was thinking of having the bottom of the first combustion chamber removable for cleaning as I would be running unfiltered drain oil. I see a guy on you tube who makes burners out of fire extinguishers and they seem to run well. I am thinking I could insulate the inside of the shell with ceramic wool and have an insulated flex pipe ran through my garage window. The big blower that circulates the air would be attached off center of the shell so it swirls the air around the combustion chambers and exhaust pipes. I am thinking with 2 or 3 combustion chambers all the residual oil would have plenty of places to completely burn up and the only thing exiting would be carbon monoxide. the car muffler would contain the flame completely and act as another heat exchange.

Goals:
1. Burn unfiltered oil, so I would have to use wider fuel line. I could pressurize the vessel with something quiet like an air brush compressor for fuel delivery.
2. Preferably no preheating, with having 3-4 burn chambers. I could keep the oil supply in the garage to keep it a little warmer if need be.
3. No spray nozzles. I built a gun style spray burner one time, It worked well on the first batch of oil I burned because it was mixed with gasoline, but once it was straight waste oil, I couldn't get any kind of combustion what so ever. Plus, I don't want my air compressor running all the time.

4. No filtering, I would like to just be able to dump any crap in my container that is petroleum based oil that doesnt contain antifreeze. Its hard enough to get oil to burn in -10 degree temperatures that I don't want to have to spend more time screwing around with cleaning the oil, when I could just burn it, and remove the primary burn chamber to clean that.

Any after thoughts?
3
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Relay help needed!
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on December 26, 2017, 07:54:39 pm »
The easy way to check if the igniter is working is to lift it up while it is trying to fire. If it is good you will see the spark jump to the electrodes. 
4
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Relay help needed!
« Last post by olscout99 on December 26, 2017, 02:18:52 pm »
It WAS dialed in pretty well, until Saturday when it quit working. I'm pretty sure the solid state Beckett ignitor (replaces the big heavy box coil) died on it. I cleaned the diffuser of a pretty good build up near the nozzle, which I suspect was caused by a combination of things to include not enough reflected heat at the beginning, and improper air adjustment, and also cleaned the nozzle (which was open). Put it all back together, and I'm getting oil spray on the target but no fire, so I suspect the ignitor.  Local hardware wants $$$$ for one, so I have one coming from Amazon tomorrow and we'll see then if it's the problem. I have heard people say the new type solid state ignitors are problematic, but unless I can find a smaller iron version it's what I'm stuck with due to the physical constraints of my furnace. The box for the chimney outlet is directly above the gun, and one of the large transformers either won't fit (a really really big one I have here) or will sit against the chimney outlet box (probably not optimal for long life either).  I might do some shopping to see if I can find a smaller iron version to have a spare on hand, waiting four or five days for a new one is not optimal. I have spares of most other parts excepting the ignitor, and I thought I was OK there too until I found the large iron versions I have won't fit.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by doug on December 26, 2017, 01:42:01 pm »
Russ, Thanks for the chart. if I'm reading the chart right I believe a lower rpm should have more torque. Who knew.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by acarter on December 26, 2017, 12:55:29 pm »
I just ordered the diaphragm pump from northern tool. I'll post back once I see how it works...

Austin
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by Russ on December 23, 2017, 10:43:18 am »
Yes, that is an interesting question.  Wanting to know more about the subject myself, I did a little digging around.

I'm no expert in this area, but if I understand the chart on this page:
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motors-hp-torque-rpm-d_1503.html

It does look like a motor of the same HP, turning slower, will have more torque.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by doug on December 22, 2017, 01:34:16 pm »
3450rpm is asking a lot for that sbc pump. Slowing down the rpm the motor may not need as much the horse power. If that makes any since.
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by olscout99 on December 22, 2017, 10:40:15 am »
That is a good question, it seems like maybe it does because most of the high torque applications like pumps and larger air compressors are driven by slower RPM motors. Maybe because it takes less starting current to start lower rpms? 
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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« Last post by ShopSpecialties on December 22, 2017, 01:01:28 am »
Thanks for the suggestion. Does a lower rpm motor of the same hp have more torque?

Good question and I am not sure if it does have more torque.
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