Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.

Well we have had temps as low as -38*F this Winter so far. My customers are pumping anywhere from 55-500 gallons at a time when they have to go get oil and they do not want to spend hours/days moving this volume of oil with a hand pump.

Not all of the Redline pumps are recommended for cold oil. The one for cold oil has a 3/4 horse, 1,140 RPM Baldor motor that costs $500+ by itself. The pump moves approximately 16 GPM. I have a couple of customers that purchased this pump from Redline and they are happy with it. Yes they are expensive but they work.

I have been doing nothing but waste oil heater/boiler sales and service for 27 years here in Montana. I also design oil storage and pumping systems for my customers. Some of those customers are burning up to 15,000 gallons a Winter and they need a reliable no screw around system that works.

http://redlinepumps.com/

Check out what this guy uses for motors on his pumps.

Thanks for the suggestion. Does a lower rpm motor of the same hp have more torque?

Good question and I am not sure if it does have more torque.

Ok, so I just checked my nozzle inventory...

The nozzle that was installed when I got the burner was a 9-2. I After a few days of frustration, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong, I installed the 9-31 and it's been working almost perfectly since then. I also have a handful of 9-5's which after a little research seems to be the stock nozzle.

So it seems that I'm running a slightly smaller than stock nozzle, which makes sense because my blast chamber is defiantly smaller than the original Clean Burn furnace.

Now that I think about it I'm guessing because the previous owner burned Vegetable oil he needed a smaller nozzle and that's why the 9-2 was in there, does that make sense?

Are nozzles something that wear out pretty often? I'm not sure how old the current nozzle is, but is it something I should have a good spare of?

Also, what is everybody setting their preheater temp to? The Clean burn manual says 150, but it seems to work better at 170.... I've read the over 180 and there is a high risk of carbon buildup in the heater.

Thanks,
Austin

I would go with the 9-5 nozzle. They do wear out over time but it takes 1,000's of gallons of oil running through them before they start to wear. You can take them apart to clean them if they get plugged. I do not run anything over 150* of preheat temp and you will bake the oil quickly especially with that burner having the oil element on the oil. The CB 4000 burner was short lived and the worst of all the Clean Burn designs.

That is a great idea, you should be able to sell that one for enough money to fund the cost of a new propane unit.

I would not go smaller than 45,000 BTU or larger than 60,000 BTU. Both of those can be purchased for well under $1,000. A new CB-140 is going to run you $4,950 maybe cheaper if your dist is running any kind specials. That is a big price gap for a shop that only gets occasional use.

36x28 is that a misprint ? If not that is going to play a big part in the formation of rust on the firebox. I am going to ballpark your BTU needs @ 60,000 or less and your heater is 185,000 BTU. That much overkill is not good for fireboxes.

A new CB-140 @ 140,000 will be a little closer to your needs but still overkill. Size wise it is only about 12" longer and HxW are similar. Much easier to clean to with the swing away door. Metered oil pump so you never have to adjust oil pressure again.

If no one has a manual take some pics and we can get it figured out.