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Topics - Rapidrob

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I've been running my stove I built as a drip system for several years now. It worked very well but had one draw back, the stove took more than an hour to reach 250 degrees F to turn on the circulation fan.
I needed heat fast to warm my shop.
I saw how to make a forced air drip feed system that is so simple to make its amazing.
The amount of heat the burner produces has to be felt to be believed. The burner is a simple steel pipe with a 90 degree bend firing into a Dodge Truck rear brake drum.
Oil is dripped into a 1 1/4"  steel pipe via a 1/4" pipe cut at  a 45 degree angle and the cut is placed towards the brake drum.
The pipe is directing air flow from a Hot Tub Bubble Blower. The blower is controlled by a Harbor Freight 120 volt motor speed control.
The rushing air passing the 45 degree 1/4" drip pipe end causes a low pressure to form. This pulls the oil out of the pipe as an oil fog and blast it into the red hot brake drum where it flashes into white/blue flame. The burn is complete leaving no ash and there is only smoke at start up.
Starting is by a shot of Diesel in the brake drum and light. The flames heat the end of the burner until it is hot enough to flash the oil fog to self ignite and spread the heat into the brake drum and stove body.
The stove now reaches 450 degrees F in 8 minutes! And the stove weighs 450 pounds. Adjusting the drip feed keeps the stove at this temperature all day long.
Running full oil feed will heat the stove to excessive temperatures in 20 minutes . I stopped the feed at 650 Degrees F.
The heat melted the copper Diesel feed start up line. I need to replace it with Stainless Steel tubing.
I will also install a Fail-Safe Blower Hi Limit control that will kill the blower power and stop the air flow.



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User Projects & Pictures / Repost of lost photos topic
« on: November 06, 2019, 01:34:42 pm »
I retired two years  ago and spend a lot of time in my Reloading/Repair shop.  It is my above ground Man-Cave. I live on a mountain in New Mexico and it gets cold here. Minus 15 degrees F is not too uncommon.
I have a propane furnace in my shop but fuel prices are going nuts out here. I needed to find a cheaper alternative to heat my shop which is only occupied during the day for a few hours normally.
Many decades ago the “Mother Earth News" a 60/70's publication would have great articles on how to do just about anything to make life easier and on the cheap.
I remember a Waste Oil burner that had no moving parts to speak of that would produce a lot of heat for a little fuel.
The concept is so simple you'd think it would not work but it does. You slowly drip waste oil (it does not matter what it is) onto a very hot surface in which the fuel flashes into vapors which ignite instantly and burn at a very high temperature. No smoke and almost no odor what so ever.
Jump to 2016. Why not build a Stove containing a burner and capture most of the heat produced and then move the hot air around using a small fan? To increase the thermal output and temperature of the burn, add a forced air stream.
So I did a list of materials of what was needed. I pondered the stove design for a day or so and worked out in my head what I wanted. It had to have a good mass for heat retention and still be able to be moved if need be. It had to be 100% reliable and as safe as possible.  I wanted as few moving parts ( KISS) so it will always work and anyone can run it. It had to be HOT!
After all it is the whole idea. A nice warm shop in the dead of winter.
The stove is a 24” I.D and is ½” thick. It stands about four feet  tall. It is made from high pressure oil pipe line (how ironic) and the floor of the stove is ½” high carbon steel plate. It will never burn/rust out in anyone’s life time.
The top of the stove is a step down for the larger pipe left over from an old Cracking Plant. The chimney is off the shelf. A thimble is used to protect the roof as it exits outside.
The burner is a design I thought of but cannot take the credit for as I know someone else has had to think of it before. I like simple.
I’m using free parts from an automotive brake shop. The “firebox” is a dodge pickup truck rear brake Drum. The top of the firebox is a brake rotor from the same truck. The two slip together as if made to do so! I cut the center out of the disk and welded on a heavy piece of steel pipe that I perforated to increase air flow. The drum is welded shut to contain any oil. A hole is drilled through the brake disk to allow oil to drip into the burner. You do not need to do this. You can drip the oil right down the chimney into the burner.  I wanted a safer and longer lasting oil feed.
I then drilled a hole at the bottom of the chimney to allow the air fitting. The air is spun in the chimney as if it was a “Flamenado” This is where all the magic happens. The heat produced is amazing.
Waste oil is fed by gravity via a 5 gallon steel pail and a steel line via a petcock valve. The valve controls the drip rate. This is the only moving part in the fuel delivery. It is fool proof and easy to clean.
The pail is far enough away from the hot stove wall as to not be a fire hazard but close enough to warm the oil for a free flow.
The only real complicated part is the air compressor. And that is pretty much bullet proof. It is a surplus twin piston Air Brush compressor. It does not provide a high pressure, but it is constant. You don’t need much air. The pump is about the size of a kid’s lunch box. The running of the compressor is the same as a 75 Watt bulb. Not much in cost.
A rubber hose goes to the stove from the compressor and then to a copper air line to the burner. I used a salvaged gas orifice from an old stove to restrict the flow and speed it up to a jet of air. 
You don’t need the forced air for this burner to work but it really increases heat output for a given fuel amount.
Inside of the stove, above the burner, I have stacked several steel plates and old brake rotors each with an air gap. Think of a pagoda as they absorb and deflect heat to the walls of the stove. This works very well and reduces heat loss.
To light the stove requires an ignition source. I use Diesel. Gasoline is far too dangerous to use.
I pour into the burner about a ¼ cup of Diesel and drop a match into it. The diesel fuel heats the burner walls to about 600 degrees F in a matter of seconds. A flu draught is created and it gets hotter as the seconds pass. I then open the petcock on the waste oil to a small stream of oil.
The oil is fed by a stainless steel tube.
 The burning diesel starts to vaporize the waste oil and it burns. I then turn on the air compressor. Instantly the vapors ignite and the flame temperature starts to climb. Within minutes the burner is running at over 1,000 degrees F and has a nice whooshing sound to it. At this point the burner is self sustaining. It will run as long as there is fuel.
Fuel is not reduced to control stove temp. I like a drop of oil a second.
 There is neither smoke nor odor inside the shop. Outside there is a slight odor of something burning, but it does not smell like oil more like hot steel.  No smoke to be seen.
Within 20 minutes the 500 pound stove is producing hundreds degrees of heat which is controlled by oil flow. A drop a second of oil will keep the stove at 350 degrees all day long. At 150 degrees F a thermal switch kicks on (magnet and sensor on side of stove) and starts a small fan to blow the heat at the ceiling downward.
The stove burns 5 gallons of oil in ten hours. The shop is at 70 degrees F. And it cost less than 50 cents in electricity to do it. The oil is FREE!
I have not found oil that will not burn.
 No PCB’s in my waste oil . My suppliers have it tested if it is transformer oil from before the 70’s.
Oil is so abundant I have to turn down suppliers.
Cleaning out the burner is fast and simple. The burner opens instantly and what is left would not fill a coffee cup after burning 55 gallons of oil.
The stove stores heat for many hours after shut down.
Since I built the stove last year I have moved the compressor outside of the shop to its own weather-proof container to reduce noise in my shop ( I listen to a lot of music/news as I putt around)
I’ve added insulated corrugated steel to the walls closest to the stove of my shop just in case of a run-away stove temperature. The stove has never gotten hotter on the outside than 550 Degrees F on a wide open burn.  Better to be safe.
There are several designs on the web to use. They all work well but I would be worried about fire as many of them operate at very high temps that would burn you or start a fire almost instantly if touched. Not good.
The cost of the stove pipe and roof thimble cost more than the stove to build!
I doubt I have the cost of a good Mosin Nagant ’91 rifle in my build.
My stove is safe, clean and I’m doing my “Green” PC stiff burning oils that will never be illegally dumped into the ground or our waters. The oils are not in danger of being in a truck wreck as they are transported across the country to be refined again or incinerated.
Did you know many of the incinerators do not capture the heat nor do they use the produced heat in anyway? What a “waste” of waste  oil.
You are saving the suppliers lots of money not having to pay to get rid of the waste oils.
My design burns very, very hot. You can add more air flow, or spray the oil into the burner to get the burn even hotter if you wanted. Some do.
 I kept my design simple and safe as possible. The inside of the firebox can reach over 1,200 Degrees F to provide a very clean burn and many states really like this.
 I thought I share my little project. You might want to save some cash as well.


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My home made stove has been heating my shop for many years now. To start the stove I dump in a few ounces  of Diesel fuel, add paper soaked in diesel and then light it with a gas match and away it goes. I have to dump the Diesel fuel up and over my burner, stuff in the paper first. While easy to do,it can be messy and I normally end up smelling like diesel fuel all day long.
I'd like to add a small external diesel fuel feed line and some sort of device to control the amount of Diesel fuel as it is very hard to see inside of the burner ( disk brake rotor and read drum type burner) .
I was thinking a small tank mounted away and above the stove with a copper or steel feed line. I have a few ideas as to how to portion the starting Diesel fuel but would like to see or read what you may have done to your stove?
Thanks for any info.

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We all fell into the pit of darkness after Photobucket decided that 300 bucks would free-up your third party photos.
This is an update on an oil burning stove I did last year.
The stove body is very heavy being made from high pressure gas/oil pipeline. The walls are 1/2" thick. The base is 3/4" cold rolled steel to prevent burn/rust out for a lifetime.
I tried several burner designs for a modified air/drip system and settled on a modified automotive brakes burner.
What this is is a truck brake drum is used as the fire box.The hub and stud holes are welded shut.  The top of the drum brake is sealed by the same maker truck disk brake with the center cut out. A flue is made from heavy walled steel pipe and perforated to allow air flow and proper mixture of the dripping oil vapors and air.
Out side of the stove is a gravity feed 5 gallon steel pail and pet cock valve. I found this works very well to pre-heat the oil and allow a drip rate to be set. My oil is a verity of mixed waste oils and not super clean.
The air is provided by a small two cylinder air brush compressor. It only draws as much current as a 75 Watt bulb.
I fed the air to the side if the flue via a copper line and a small orifice I made with a hole just large enough to really swirl the air in the burner. The pump is now outside of the shop in a weather proof box. This removes all the noise.
The stove takes 20 minutes to heat up before a thermostatic fan kicks in to move the warm air around the shop.
The stove body heats up to 600 Degrees F if I let the oil flow and 350 DF if I let it drip.
The mass of the stove stays hot for a couple of hours when shut down.
Inside of the stove I have stacked several heavy steel plates as well as old brake disk to slow the rising heat and disperse it around the body of the stove.
The stove is fairly efficient in that I burn 5 gallons of oil on a really cold day in ten hours of drip time.
This will keep my shop a 65 Degrees F. If I need to go warmer to dry paint,etc I will increase the temp to 75 Degrees F and burn the oil in 6 hours.
When at temp there is no smoke nor any smell.
The burner comes apart instantly for removing the ash in the drum brake. I only need to do this once a month depending on the quality of the waste oil.
So far I have not found an oil that does not burn well in this stove.


   

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User Projects & Pictures / Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 03, 2016, 11:17:06 am »
I recently acquired a large amount of of clean transformer oil (non-PCB) that I salvaged. The company that used to take the oil for free now charges 400 bucks to get rid of it. Being born at night,but not last night I walked away from them.
I hit Craigslist and found an "oil burning stove" 100 miles away from next to nothing. While the owner says he was able to burn oil there is no burner plate or other device to allow the oil to be heated to vapors.
 The stove is well made with 1/2 steel being used. It weighs close to 400 pounds. The oil is fed from a 5 gallon bucket at a 20 degree angle.



The stove is 19" O.D with 18" I.D usable. Air gap under stove is 5", Door is 8x12" opening.

The stove stands 43" to the top of the flue

6" flue opening

standard pet-cock to control oil flow. Steel feeder pipe.

I found this Mother's Earth News built burner on ebay for 5 bucks. The bottom skillet is 10",the top 8" with the perforated plates to help vaporize the oil. 



I searched the internet and youtube for ideas and plans only to find most of the links were dead or the quality of the vids poor. Many of the posters can no longer be contacted due to the age of their post.
It was not until I had the parts in hand that I found this site and I'm hoping you guys can help me out with ideas or even plans.
I would like to use the stove a s Drip Oil type burner if that is possible using Transformer Oil?
Compressed air is not an option.
Power is not a problem.
I have no real idea as to how to configure the firebox and capture the heat before it all goes out of the chimney?
At this point I'd like to do it right. I have on hand gas torches,welders,disc cutters and a medium sized lathe/milling machine.
Running a 12(or more) foot chimney straight up out of the shop is not a problem.
I'd like your ideas as to my options and would really appreciate them.
I look forward to your replies.
Rob


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Welcome Center / Howdy from New Mexico
« on: February 03, 2016, 09:15:16 am »
I found this site after too many dead links and deleted photo's/vids on the web about waste oil burning stoves.
I have a project started that I'm hoping members here can help with. I have a large quantity of transformer oil (non-PCB) that I want to heat my shop with. I look forward to members help with the design of the burner.
Thank you!
Rob.

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