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Messages - ShopSpecialties

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Waste Motor Oil / Re: Relay help needed!
« on: December 26, 2017, 07:54:39 pm »
The easy way to check if the igniter is working is to lift it up while it is trying to fire. If it is good you will see the spark jump to the electrodes. 

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« on: December 22, 2017, 01:01:28 am »
Thanks for the suggestion. Does a lower rpm motor of the same hp have more torque?

Good question and I am not sure if it does have more torque.

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« on: December 20, 2017, 09:15:32 pm »
Air diaphragm pump is the best for moving cold oil but they do require a large volume of air to operate. For electric motors I would go down to 1140 RPM for cold oil. 

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Boiler install
« on: December 20, 2017, 08:23:48 pm »
Ok, so I just checked my nozzle inventory...

The nozzle that was installed when I got the burner was a 9-2. I After a few days of frustration, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong, I installed the 9-31 and it's been working almost perfectly since then. I also have a handful of 9-5's which after a little research seems to be the stock nozzle.

So it seems that I'm running a slightly smaller than stock nozzle, which makes sense because my blast chamber is defiantly smaller than the original Clean Burn furnace.

Now that I think about it I'm guessing because the previous owner burned Vegetable oil he needed a smaller nozzle and that's why the 9-2 was in there, does that make sense?

Are nozzles something that wear out pretty often? I'm not sure how old the current nozzle is, but is it something I should have a good spare of?

Also, what is everybody setting their preheater temp to? The Clean burn manual says 150, but it seems to work better at 170.... I've read the over 180 and there is a high risk of carbon buildup in the heater.


I would go with the 9-5 nozzle. They do wear out over time but it takes 1,000's of gallons of oil running through them before they start to wear. You can take them apart to clean them if they get plugged. I do not run anything over 150* of preheat temp and you will bake the oil quickly especially with that burner having the oil element on the oil. The CB 4000 burner was short lived and the worst of all the Clean Burn designs.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 24, 2017, 12:01:25 pm »
I did not mention Omni because they are at the bottom for quality, reliability, in person customer support etc.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 06, 2017, 06:46:26 pm »
That is a great idea, you should be able to sell that one for enough money to fund the cost of a new propane unit.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 06, 2017, 04:15:54 pm »
140,000 BTU is the smallest. I would get some bids for propane and see what you would be looking at for costs.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 06, 2017, 01:10:39 pm »
I would not go smaller than 45,000 BTU or larger than 60,000 BTU. Both of those can be purchased for well under $1,000. A new CB-140 is going to run you $4,950 maybe cheaper if your dist is running any kind specials. That is a big price gap for a shop that only gets occasional use.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 06, 2017, 12:16:17 pm »
If you were my customer I would try to talk you out of buying a heater. I believe in being honest with customers is more important that making a couple of $$. For that small of shop I would go with NG/Propane or even electric depending on rates in your area. 

What is the height of your shop and level of insulation ? Lets try to narrow down your BTU # and see what would work best for you.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 06, 2017, 11:48:57 am »
36x28 is that a misprint ? If not that is going to play a big part in the formation of rust on the firebox. I am going to ballpark your BTU needs @ 60,000 or less and your heater is 185,000 BTU. That much overkill is not good for fireboxes.

A new CB-140 @ 140,000 will be a little closer to your needs but still overkill. Size wise it is only about 12" longer and HxW are similar. Much easier to clean to with the swing away door. Metered oil pump so you never have to adjust oil pressure again.

Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: heat exchanger rust
« on: September 05, 2017, 10:09:30 pm »
Hello Jerry,
                 That is something that happens with fireboxes over time. They will eventually rust out  and need replacement. I would clean the heater then remove the fan and sheet metal top of heater. Do a visual inspection to check for cracks and holes in firebox/tubes. I then hit each tube with a hammer to make sure each one rings and if you get a thud that tube is bad.

27 years is a very good lifespan for a firebox. Unfortunately it was discontinued several years and there is no replacement fireboxes. The new style burners and fireboxes are a huge improvement you might want to check out.

If there is anything I can do help let me know.


Commercial Waste Oil Heaters / Re: lanair hs90 hot shot
« on: May 28, 2017, 04:37:09 pm »
If no one has a manual take some pics and we can get it figured out.

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Oil not igniting
« on: February 14, 2017, 07:08:15 pm »
Water goes to the bottom of tank so it can be easily drained. Your pickup screen should be at least a couple of inches off the bottom.

The nozzle comes apart and there is 3 pieces. Hold it upright with a pair of pliers on the stem and unscrew the top with your 5/8". Spray out the 3 pieces with brake clean onto a paper towel to see if anything comes out. If black carbon pieces come out you need to do a burner rebuild. Clean burn recommends burner rebuilds every year and I say every 2-3 years is good as long as the power is turned off in the Summer.

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Ignition problems
« on: January 22, 2017, 01:46:33 pm »
Waste oil does not need continuous spark. The latest primary controls on commercial waste oil heaters actually turn off the ignitor when cad cell sees flame.

Sounds like you are sucking air.

User Projects & Pictures / Re: Home made furnace
« on: January 16, 2017, 08:21:52 pm »
That heater had like a 77" long firebox. I think a better option would be a Shenandoah B5 burner with J-pump. That way you could dial in the flame perfect for your size firebox.

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