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Topics - olscout99

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Metering Pumps / More pump information needed
« on: October 30, 2017, 08:14:02 pm »
So, I'm about to put my 'frankenmonster' waste oil heater together, and I have choices to make. I have bits and pieces of several different units, including two CK type burners. I also have two older Lanair units, one of which I plan to use the actual 'furnace' assembly of.  I'm going to pass on the Lanair burners for now because I think I can do a better job of burning with the CK kit burners. My question is how to set them up...I have choices. I'm setting the Lanair furnace on a steel shelving unit that is about 5 feet tall, both because I have it and because it makes the gun easy to work on. I have one CK unit that I described in an earlier post, it was hooked to an old hydraulic pump with regulators and bypasses that ran anytime the furnace was on which was pretty much always since it was heating a huge uninsulated pole barn. This pump is mounted on a large tank on wheels, which makes it handy, and I am considering using it that way. Anybody have an idea of the PSI I should be looking at after the regulator to feed a siphon burner?  A thought I had was to put a return line in at a T where the siphon tube starts, so that any 'excess' oil is returned to the tank. It appears that that is how one of the Lanair units I have worked, with a two line system that returned overflow to the tank from the siphon at the gun. I have that pump also that I can use, but I was leaning towards using it with a constant level tank (which I also have) that is heated. I can see pluses and minuses for both systems. My shop is unheated other than the furnace, and it won't be run much when I'm not out there unless I'm doing something that requires it to stay at temp overnight. The CL tank I have does have an over flow, but since it was gravity fed it just used a ball float valve. I have bought a separate float switch to install in the tank to turn  the pump on and off, and also bought a time delay relay that can shut the pump off if the float sticks after a preset time. So, for people who have been using the CK type kits for a while- am I better off to go with the pump option, regulated and/or with a return line, or to use the heated float tank? I have pretty much everything I need to go either way, including several 'regular' furnace oil pumps if one of those would be better suited.  It's just a choice of what method would work best and be the most dependable. Thanks!

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Buy - Sell - Trade / Thermobile AT 307 Waste/veggie oil pot burner
« on: March 28, 2017, 03:55:54 pm »
Selling my Thermobile AT 307. Unit has been used for about three or four years, it was bought as new old stock still in the box from a farm supply store. This unit is pretty much trouble free and is easy to start. Has a built in 15 gallon or so oil tank, built in circulation fan, and it does a good job of heating my 30'x48'x10' ceiling pole barn in the winter. Going to a furnace style conversion to make it easier to keep the shop warm all the time. This same unit is now sold in the states by Thermobile as a waste vegetable oil heater; a friend of mine bought one the same time I did and runs his on veggie oil and says it stays much cleaner than WMO. If you have a source of WVO and want a cheap way to heat with it, this might be your best option. Located in zip 46365, Northern Indiana, and I can help with hauling if necessary for a reasonable distance. Asking $950 OBO, these go for over $2000 new. Thanks!

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Metering Pumps / Ebay metering pumps?
« on: February 16, 2017, 08:37:24 pm »
I just picked up a working furnace using one of the CK kits due to the owner upsizing to a new Cleanburn. He's been overfiring it something terrible, so I'm on the lookout for a 'new' old furnace to swap parts into, and I'm looking for a way to do a metering pump. He has had an electric motor running a small hydraulic pump, but I'm sure he's running more oil than I want or need to; in addition I think he was running it continuously, and I'm going to run it off of a thermostat. Maybe I'm missing something, but is there a reason that the chemical type metering pumps sold on Ebay wouldn't work if they can be slowed down to an appropriate flow rate? Lots of them are 1-2 gph rating, although the pressures are up there. If I'm not understanding something, clue me in please! I've got all summer to make this work, but I want to start early so I'm not messing with it in the cold.

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