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Topics - Russ

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1
Waste Motor Oil / Flame cutting out on ckburner
« on: January 06, 2017, 10:53:42 pm »
Recently I have noticed the flame on my burner cutting out about every 3-5 seconds.  It will loose flame for just a fraction of a second, but seems to be getting worse.  Checked air & spark and they look good.  I did some research tonight and I am thinking that the o-ring is bad.  Apparently if there is any damage to the o-ring, suction can be lost resulting in no fuel for a short time.

For a test I connected my metering pump (that I haven't started using full time yet because of oil drip problems I need to solve) to the burner and fired it up.  At low pump speeds it still did the cutting out, but when I turned the pump it went away.  I am thinking that with a little pressure from the pump, the o-ring doesn't leak and provides a continuous flame.

I will try to locate an o-ring in town tomorrow and give a new one a try.  Updates to follow....

2
Board Suggestions / Moved to new server
« on: February 20, 2015, 11:43:35 pm »
The forum was moved to a brand new server tonight.  Hopefully we wont see any troubles because of it, but if anyone notices any thing, please let me know.

Thanks!

Russ

3
Metering Pumps / Building a metering pump
« on: October 13, 2013, 10:42:57 am »
I think my project for this year will be the addition of a metering pump.  I am using a constant level tank now, but would like the more precise control of a metering pump.  I also like the idea of filtering before the pump, something that you cant do with the gravity feed of the constant level tank.

In the research I have done so far, it looks like the commercial built and home built units use a Suntec A2RA-7710 pump and some sort of 90VDC motor that can be controlled by a variable speed controller to adjust the RPM which affects the flow of the pump.

The motors I have seen mentioned are either Dayton or Bodine brand gear motors.  I think there are different controllers, but the one I seen mentioned was a Dart brand.

I am a little unsure of the RPM the motor needs to be.  The specs of the 7710 pump say .40GPH at 135RPM and a max of 2.5GPH at 3450RPM.  Tha'ts a pretty wide RPM range.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to start with a motor?

Doug, if you see this, do you have more specifics on what your motor and controller setup are?

Thanks for the help!

4
Waste Motor Oil / Ignitors
« on: March 17, 2013, 11:00:30 am »
Here is some information from Beckett's site:

 FEATURES OF ELECTRONIC IGNITORS

  • mount on a burner housing baseplate similar to that of a transformer.
  • are smaller (1/4 to 1/2 the size) and weigh less than a transformer (1 lb. compared to 8 lb.).
  • have oil ignition characteristics similar to that of a transformer.
  • offer improved performance with cold oil or delayed spark conditions.
  • have output currents and peak voltages that can be up to double that of iron core transformers.
  • produce a spark intensity that can be less sensitive to line voltage fluctuations.
  • are epoxy sealed for moisture resistance and have oil-resistant, non-rusting plastic enclosures.
  • consume 50 to 75% less power than transformers.

IRON CORE TRANSFORMERS draw 120 VAC (Volts, Alternating Current) into their primary coil. The steel plates of the transformer core transfer the primary coil's 60 Hz magnetic field to the secondary coil. The secondary coil uses this field to produce a high output voltage of 10,000 VRMS open circuit (when there is no secondary current flowing) that has a frequency of 60 Hz.

ELECTRONIC IGNITORS receive 120 VAC and change it to DC (Direct Current) voltage inside. The DC voltage turns power transistors on and off very quickly, conducting current through the primary coil of its small internal transformer at a frequency of 15,000 to 30,000 Hz. The secondary coil of this special high frequency transformer produces a high voltage ignitor output that has a frequency of 15,000 to 30,000 Hz.

Remember: the ability of an ignitor to ignite oil depends on more than just high voltage - it depends on arc output current as well! Spark heat energy = voltage x current.


The electronic ignitor does not require extensive maintenance. However, there are areas to consider:

  • Similar to the iron core transformer, the electronic ignitor must be kept clean and dry. Prolonged exposure to moisture can cause arc tracking and potential failure. Wipe dirt and oil from all surfaces.
  • Check insulator bushings and make sure they are clean and free from any crazing or cracks. Replace units that show evidence of damage.
  • Examine the ignitor input leads for cuts or tears in the insulation. Route the leads securely so that they are not pinched when the ignitor is closed. Make sure the wire nuts are tight and no bare wires are exposed.
  • If the ignitor has gasketing, check the sealing surfaces and replace any suspect gaskets. (Use gasket kit No. 51304 for AF and AFG burners.)
  • The secondary electrode springs should be clean, should be aligned perpendicular to the ignitor base, and should make solid contact with the burner electrode rods when the ignitor is in the closed position. If the springs makes poor contact, the ignition performance could be impaired.
  •     Perform the following test to check that the ignitor is grounded to the burner. Turn off the power to the burner. The Ohmmeter resistance between an electrode spring and the exposed metal of the burner (for instance, the copper line or a housing bolt) should be less than 2000 Ohms. If this resistance is infinite, the ignitor is not grounded to the burner. Note: This resistance should be the same as the other spring-to-burner resistance, and it should be 1/2 of the spring-to-spring resistance. If the two spring-to-burner resistances differ by more than 20%, the ignitor should be replaced.


HOW TO TEST ELECTRONIC IGNITORS
Just like an iron core transformer, an electronic ignitor is most simply tested by supplying it with 120 V input and observing whether it produces an arc. This may be done by looking or listening to see if there is an arc across the electrodes while the burner is running and the ignitor is energized. Secondly, the ignitor may be tilted back on its hinge and, when voltage is applied, the blade of an insulated screwdriver may be placed across the springs to test for an arc. NOTE: The cad cell will not permit the primary control to energize the ignitor if the cad cell senses light. Therefore, before you perform this test, disconnect one lead of the cad cell from the primary control, or remove the cell from its base. Remove power from the rest of the burner and disconnect the fuel supply from the nozzle line while performing this test. SHOCK HAZARD: Though this test is common industry practice, be careful not to physically touch any part of your body to the ignitor springs or anything metal that is touching the ignitor springs while the ignitor is energized. DO NOT use transformer testers to test electronic ignitors. Doing so will give you an inaccurate measurement and may harm the ignitor, the transformer tester, or both.

If an ignitor fails, it generally produces no arc at all. However, similar to an iron core transformer, an electronic ignitor can have a weak output arc. To test for this, perform the screwdriver arc test described above. Energize the ignitor and place the blade of the insulated screwdriver across the springs. Keeping the blade in contact with one of the springs, slowly pull the blade away from the other spring, drawing an arc from the spring to the blade. With a 110 V to 120 V input and no air flow across the arc, the ignitor should be able to maintain an arc with the screwdriver blade at least 3/4" away from the spring. If the ignitor is not able to sustain a 3/4" spring-to-spring arc, or if an arc drawn from one spring to the grounded baseplate is weaker than an arc drawn from the other spring to the baseplate, replace the ignitor.

Electronic ignitors have proven to be durable, effective ignition components. They have achieved wide acceptance in the oilheat industry. Hopefully, this bulletin has further acquainted you with important features, performance, and service aspects.

5
Compressed Air Sources / Thomas 2660 Pump
« on: January 28, 2013, 10:02:35 pm »
I am going to give this pump a try on my burner.  I cant seem to find a manual for this thing anywhere.  Does anyone have a manual in pdf form they could post out here?  I found a field service manual, but that doesn't really explain all of the ports.  There is a black plastic piece in the "F" port.  I am wondering if that is some sort of relief valve?

6
Board Suggestions / Updated Forum Software
« on: January 26, 2013, 10:59:16 am »
Those of you that frequent the forum may have noticed it looks a little different.  I have upgraded the forum software from SMF 1.1 to 2.  It was a pretty major upgrade and seems to have added some nice features.  One of which that automatically subscribes you to topics that you have participated in.  Hopefully this will help keep everyone informed when there is a new post to a topic.  If you aren't getting the emails from replies in topics you have participated in, let me know and I will see what might be wrong.

Hopefully everything is working as it should be.  If anyone sees something that isn't working properly, just let me know.

Thanks and enjoy the forum!

Russ

7
Waste Motor Oil / Waste oil spill... What a mess!
« on: October 22, 2012, 10:24:22 pm »
Those of us that work with waste oil know how messy it can be, especially if it is out of a diesel engine.  Well, I was off to work this morning and to my surprise when I opened the garage door I was greeted to a very large puddle of oil on the garage floor.  At first I just couldn't figure out where it would have came from.  I have two 55 gallon barrels full and moved them around yesterday.  I thought maybe skidding them on the floor punctured a hole in them.  Nope.  My brand new plastic 15 gallon holding tank that feeds my constant level tank was the problem.  I filtered about 4 gallons into the holding tank, ran the heater a bit, then shut things down.  On the bottom of my holding tank I drilled a hole and fitted it with a plastic barbed fitting and JB welded it in.  Put it on extra thick so it wouldn't leak.  Well apparently the JB weld (the quick weld version) didn't adhere to the plastic and broke clean loose.  Then all the oil leaked out all over the floor.  What a mess!  Thankfully I hadn't filled it full, but the 3 remaining gallons did a good job of making a mess.  I don't know if it was the quick weld that was the problem, the composition of the plastic barrel, or a combination of the two that it just broke clean off.  Might have to avoid the quick weld from now on.  The mess is mostly cleaned up after hours of cleaning.  Floor dry is very helpful.  Thankfully our small town hardware store had some.  Then soapy water, dish soap, fast orange hand soap and a scrub brush have done a pretty good job.  I put the fast orange right on the oil, scrubbed it in with a brush, then washed it off with soapy water.  Gonna get some more floor dry tomorrow and hopefully finish.

Anyway guys, stay safe on the fire side of things and be cautious when handling this stuff.  It doesn't take much oil to have a huge mess on your hands.

8
Links / Surplus items. Lots of air parts
« on: October 07, 2012, 12:45:03 pm »
May be useful for those building a heater:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/

9
Board Suggestions / Spammers
« on: May 02, 2012, 12:27:02 pm »
Howdy Doug,

Yea, looks like a few spammers snuck on and were posting.  Hopefully it should be all cleaned up.  Thanks for keeping an eye out.

Later...

Russ

10
User Projects & Pictures / New Burnham Boiler Project
« on: January 17, 2012, 10:11:38 pm »
Here is my new project.  Doug was the inspiration to this project.  Have been heating the garage with my forced air pressure system, but I wanted a way to get some of the heat into the house.  It will be in the garage and will provide heat for the house and the garage.  More details to come.

11
Board Suggestions / Site not loading correctly in FireFox
« on: October 30, 2011, 11:13:29 am »
Anyone else having trouble loading this site in FireFox? 

Internet explorer seems to work fine for me, so I am thinking it is a FireFox problem.

How has it been working for the rest of you?

12
Waste Motor Oil / What do recyclers do with waste oil?
« on: October 30, 2011, 11:12:08 am »
Does anyone know what happens to oil that gets recycled at the public dump spots or the stuff that in & out oil change stations recycle?

I have never seen a bottle of new oil that says "made from 25% recycled oil".  I wonder if it gets turned into other tyeps of lubricants, or does it get burned somewhere?

13
Waste Motor Oil / Out of oil for the season?
« on: April 08, 2011, 11:17:04 pm »
Well, temps here are hitting 50 and the waste oil burning season is pretty much over.  Did everyone deplete their supply of waste oil over the winter?  I think I have about 75 gallons left yet.

Thanks to everyone for keeping the board active over the winter.  I'm guessing things will be pretty quiet over the summer here.  More chat next year!!

15
Waste Motor Oil / Cleaned the furnace today
« on: January 10, 2010, 05:10:38 pm »
And here is what I found.  There were a few big chunks if the hard ash stuff in the burn chamber also.  Didn't have to burn many gallons to get to this point.  Keeping a wast oil burner going is quite a bit of work, but cutting wood is a lot more work... ha!

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