Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.

I thought I had contaminated oil at first because I could not ignite it, but now I'm beginning to think my 30609-5 nozzle is partially clogged. If I remove the nozzle, I can ignite the oil. If I spray compressed air through the nozzle and clean it, it will ignite for 30 seconds and then clog up again.

Is it possible my nozzle went bad? Is this common?

I have a CleanBurn 2800 if that matters.

Thanks for the pics. I will track down a check valve and order that and the strainer. I also wanted to order a few extra oil filters and an extra nozzle or two.

Do you mount the pump to something else and then plumb the 3/4" tube into the tank that way through the tanks large (approximately 2" hole) or are you mounting the pump to the tank itself somehow?

The pump still did not kick on after seating all of the wires that I could and will kick on when I smack the side of it (like a starter) so I ordered the pump today. Thanks for that link, you saved me a few bucks plus they are in Delaware and 1 or 2 days shipping away.

I'll be nursing it until the motor comes in and then be swapping motors as soon as I can. Is the swap difficult or does it require any special tools? I need to draw out the new plumbing system as well and get those parts too.

The black wire to the thermostat was not connected very well, as soon as I moved it the unit started itself, so we are back in business and down to only 2 issues ... pump motor replacement and plumbing redo. God was good to me with this storm and plowing so I have some extra money now

... and now it won'y turn on, start or illuminate but it is getting power to the junction box?

In your opinion should I give up on this thing and cut my losses?

Ok, lots of hits on that. When I get home I will check the sticker, confirm and then get a pump and start drawing how I can replumb this.

Thank you

Hi,

The set screws appear to be tight. It's behaving just like a starter that is on its way out, the coils get energized but it won't rotate until you smack it a little.

Can these pumps be rebuilt or am I better off buying another one?

Here is the latest pattern, that seems to be very consistent. I will go into the building and see that the unit is not running and hasn't been running for some time as the temperature is lower than the thermostat should allow it to be. I can tell how long it hasn't ran for based on how much lower the temperature is compared to where it should be. I will try to start the unit, and it will not generate oil pressure so before the run time window ends I will smack the case of the motor and it will start to rotate and create pressure and run after this. Depending on how long it has been sitting without running depends on how many times it will stall out before running on its own. It can stall out anywhere from 0 to 5 times. I attribute this to air in the lines when the pump is not running but the unit is trying to start its flame.

You can hear it sputter a little and then it will usually flame out, even though oil pressure stays in the 4 to 5 psi range on the gauge. Is the gauge slow to react with some sort of hysteresis? Do you agree that the unit can flame out due to a lack of oil or oil pressure, even if the gauge is reading 4 or 5 psi? Could the gauge be reading the pressure of the air inside of the oil lines and not know the difference, so it appears there is oil pressure there when it is really air pressure at some points mixed in, which causes flame out?