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Messages - acarter

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1
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« on: January 07, 2018, 06:28:26 pm »
Well, I used the new diaphragm pump for the first time yesterday. Much better than the old gear mesh pump. Oil and air temp was around 20 degrees F, pumping through a screen filter and hydraulic filter I probably get about 2gpm, unrestricted (no filter) probably closer to 5gpm. I'm happy with that, in the warm weather I'm sure it will get close to the rated 12gpm...

Austin

2
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Transfer Pumps?
« on: December 26, 2017, 12:55:29 pm »
I just ordered the diaphragm pump from northern tool. I'll post back once I see how it works...

Austin

3
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Boiler install
« on: December 20, 2017, 03:32:55 pm »
Ok, so I just checked my nozzle inventory...

The nozzle that was installed when I got the burner was a 9-2. I After a few days of frustration, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong, I installed the 9-31 and it's been working almost perfectly since then. I also have a handful of 9-5's which after a little research seems to be the stock nozzle.

So it seems that I'm running a slightly smaller than stock nozzle, which makes sense because my blast chamber is defiantly smaller than the original Clean Burn furnace.

Now that I think about it I'm guessing because the previous owner burned Vegetable oil he needed a smaller nozzle and that's why the 9-2 was in there, does that make sense?

Are nozzles something that wear out pretty often? I'm not sure how old the current nozzle is, but is it something I should have a good spare of?

Also, what is everybody setting their preheater temp to? The Clean burn manual says 150, but it seems to work better at 170.... I've read the over 180 and there is a high risk of carbon buildup in the heater.

Thanks,
Austin

4
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Boiler install
« on: December 20, 2017, 03:06:42 pm »
That Cleanburn 4000 is a big unit, with the factory nozzle it's rated at 280,000 btu and 2.0 gallons per hour fuel consumption. Did you get the pump with it? The manual I saw calls for around 7 psi oil pressure, and 26 psi air, which is way above and beyond what most of us are running in our kit furnaces. I'm not a furnace or boiler expert and I don't even play one on TV, but do you need that much BTU for your setup? Depending on the size of the burn chamber and how much water you're heating, you might be able to drop down in nozzle size, oil psi and air psi and still do what you need to do. One clue might be cycle time, if the unit cycles on and just runs a short time and cycles off, then does it again shortly after, that may indicate that it's oversized for what you're heating. It's more efficient, or at least that's what I understand, for the unit to run longer cycles less often.

Thanks for the info.

It did come with the "Clean Burn" pump...

It came with an assortment of nozzles, and I have no idea which one is factory. Right now I'm running around 5psi oil and 22psi air and that seems to be working pretty well. In the last 24 hours I've burned just shy of 10 gallons and it's about 15 degrees at night and 30 during the day, I was also heating the garage for a few hours. That's a major improvement from before I cleaned the blast chamber, but that's still a lot of oil, I would love to get the down to maybe 5 gallons/ day when I'm not heating the garage at all.

I'm going to go look what nozzle is currently being used and post back...

I currently have it set to kick on at 170 degrees and off at 180, I would say it takes it 10-15 minutes to get back up to temp if nothing is on, and longer if the blower in the house is running or the shop heater is on. The off time depends on how much the heaters are running but at most it's off for about 45 min.

5
Waste Motor Oil / Transfer Pumps?
« on: December 20, 2017, 08:33:35 am »
Lets talk pumps... what is everyone using to transfer their WMO in the cold weather? The pump I have (that came with my used burner) worked ok in the warmer weather, but when it gets below freezing my transfer rate is way less than 1 gpm. It is a "gear mesh" style pump.

I'm thinking an air operated diaphragm pump, like the link below would do the trick. This is about the cheapest one I found, it is rated for 12gpm, but I would be happy for 2 or 3 when it's below freezing.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623841_200623841

I think I've got the burner figured out (fingers crossed), this morning makes my first 24 hours without having to go reset it, so it's time to invest some money into transferring the oil.

6
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Boiler install
« on: December 11, 2017, 10:10:38 am »
Austin, nice looking set up. twenty gallons per day seems like a lot of fuel. are you running an expansion tank and is your boiler system a closed loop?

Yes, I agree. That's why I think it still needs a lot of cleaning. There is probably at least an inch of buildup in the blast cabinet of the boiler that's probably acting as an insulator. I got the fire tubes clean, but was in too much of a hurry to get it hooked up and didn't get the rest cleaned... I was also heating the uninsulated garage for most of the day when I was monitoring the fuel burn, but it's at least going through 10 gallons a day with just the house.

I'm running a "gravity fed" or "open" system. Just  like an outdoor wood boiler. I was able to avoid having to plumb a fresh water line out into the detached garage and deal with that freezing. There is a 5 gallon bucket in the rafters of the garage that's my open expansion tank :-). The only disadvantage to this setup is that there will be oxygen in the water, so rust in the boiler will be more of a problem than a closed system.

Austin

7
I just made a new post with some pics of the install, let me know if you have any questions.

Austin

8
Waste Motor Oil / Waste Oil Boiler install
« on: December 11, 2017, 08:01:55 am »
Here are some pics of my setup I just got finished installing. I have a few bugs to work out, but it's working well so far.

I have this setup in my detached garage with 1" pex lines run underground to my house to a "water to air" heat exchanger in my ductwork of my existing forced air furnace. I added a second thermostat in the house, wired directly to the furnace blower only and a strap on aquastat wired in series. So when the thermostat calls for heat, if the boiler isn't up to temp it won't turn the fan on and blow cold air around. I just keep my old thermostat (for the forced air furnace) at a lower temp as a backup.

As you can see I also have a small hydronic shop heater that I put in the garage, I have it hooked up to a thermostat, but only run it when I'm out there because the garage is uninsulated. I just let the hot water run through the loop 24/7 to keep it from freezing (the fan is controlled by the thermostat).

I found the Triad Boiler, and Clean Burn "CB4000" on craigslist. I was going to convert a normal boiler with the CK Burner kit, but luckily found this and saved a bunch of time. I have some bugs to work out on the burner itself, but it's working pretty well considering I haven't put any money into it yet.

I also have to figure out how to clean the boiler better, the previous owner hadn't cleaned it in a while and the fire tubes were almost clogged with soot buildup. I've got them all clear, but the bottom blast chamber still needs a lot of cleaning and the burner is running a lot more that it should be, when the blower is on in the house it can't quite keep up and looses ground on temperature. The burner is probably running 75% of the time, and at that rate I think I'm burning through about 20 gallons/ day to heat a 1200sf house.

As you can see, I have two tote tanks setup. One is for settling, and the other is the tank that it draws from. I have a cleanable screen filter, and a hydraulic filter that it runs through before going into the draw tank, plus the actual filter on the burner pump.

Austin


9
This is exactly what I'm doing, except I'm putting the boiler in my garage (not a separate building). I've already installed a heat exchanger in my ductwork for the furnace in the house, and ran the 1" insulated PEX lines underground to the garage. Just have to hook up the boiler in the next few weeks. I'll be using a hydronic shop heater to heat the garage itself (the hanging type with fan).

I was going to purchase a used standard oil boiler and convert the burner using the CK kit, however I just picked up a Triad vertical boiler with a Clean Burn burner off of craigslist. So I'll be using that now to save the headache of converting a standard burner.

In the house, I'm adding a second thermostat and will have the fan only wired to it with a "strap on" aqua stat wire in series to the fan. So, when the thermostat "calls for heat" it will just turn the fan on, unless the supply line isn't hot enough, then nothing will happen until it gets cold enough for the regular thermostat to turn on the furnace normally. I also may wire in an alarm to the aquastat to alert me if the boiler gets below temp...

I'll be getting this project finished up in the next few weeks and will be posting some pics of the setup.

Austin

10
Thanks, I'll post back in the next week or two when I get it all hooked up with some pics.

Austin

11
Doug,

Thanks for the info and tips. What is your primary heating system in your house? Do you have a boiler or a forced air furnace with heat exchanger like me? If so, what do you have your water temp set to? Just trying to figure out a good starting point once I get it fired up..

Austin

12
Doug,

How much oil do you burn in the peak of winter (and where are you located)? Trying to figure out how big of a tank I need. Was hoping to use a 55 gallon drum, because I can get them for free, but I'm concerned that 50 gallons won't last a week when I'm gone. I will have a backup furnace, but I don't want the reason the boiler quits to be because it ran out of fuel.

Also, with your boiler being in a shed, do you run the circulation pump 24/7, or do you have it set to kick on when your thermostat calls for heat? I've already buried 1" PEX (the 5 wrap insulated stuff), I'm just wondering how much oil I'm going to use just heating those lines even when my house doesn't need heat.

I just picked up a 6 year old Triad boiler that is set up with a Clean Burn 4000 burner and all the accessories. Hoping to get it going in the next few weeks.

Thanks,
Austin

13
Thanks for the replies, After doing a little more research on local and state code I'm decided to go with a Boiler system as olscout because of the reason mentioned. I will install it in my detached garage, which will enable me to heat the garage as a bonus. There is already a wood stove in the garage so I have the stove pipe already there. I think I may go with a combination wood/ oil boiler that will give me the option to use up some wood scrap from the garage and supplement with wood if I ever loose my oil source.

So I guess now I'll focus on converting a regular burner, since reliability won't be as much of a concern and if it takes a little while to get it perfect it won't matter.

Austin

14
Doug,

Sorry I forgot to mention, yes I do have a source for oil that can provide as much as I need.

Thanks for the link, that seems like a good option. I also found this company that seems to be along the same lines.https://challengerfabrication.com/shop/

Considering that my idea is to use my current furnace to burn the WMO, then leaving the #2 fuel oil in the tank wouldn't do much good because if the WMO system failed I would have to put the old burner back on to use it, which wouldn't be a big deal for me, but if I"m not home then it's about useless. Also, then the heating oil would eventually go bad unless I rotated it out every so many years.

If there isn't a WMO system that is reliable enough to have as a sole heating system then I probably will just stick to paying the fuel man. The few thousand $$$ per year that I would save sure would be nice, but not if I'm constantly stressed about loosing my heating system when I'm not home.

Thanks,
Austin

15
Hi,

My wife and I just recently moved to Maine from Pennsylvania and just bought our first house a few months ago. I'm always looking for ways to save money somehow I came across the idea of burning WMO. I've been doing my best to find answers to my questions online, but I'm hoping this forum will help answer a few more and give me some input from others with experience.

So, everything I read about heating from WMO is for garages/ shops, and it only seems that the people who are burning it to heat their home are doing so with home-made units. So if it is really as clean as these companies claim, why can't it be used to heat your home? I read on one site that the EPA says you can't use WMO to heat your home, but then a few others said it depends on your state. I don't mind being in the "grey area", but don't want to cause legal problems if somebody finds out what we are doing. 

Our home has a 2 year old forced air oil furnace with a Beckett burner. I realize there are several companies that make kits to convert the burners to run off of WMO, but I'm more interested in ready to go bolt on replacement that would let me use my current furnace. I'm looking for something I can buy, install, and not have to mess with (except maintenance and cleaning of course). Does that exist? This company http://www.wasteoilheat.com/waste-oil-burners.shtml seems to be about the only one that I found, but they don't have any contact info and their site leads me to think they aren't legit. I'm away from home for work quite often and I don't want something that is going to quit when I'm gone, I don't mind performing maintenance on a regular basis, but I need to be reliable.

Also, if I was able to find a system that enabled me to use my current furnace, would I be able to use my same tank? I'm read that it will eventually fill up with sludge, is this a real problem? I would love to be able to separate any water, filter it really well, and dump it right in my existing oil tank (which is in the basement).

Thanks in advance,
Austin


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