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Messages - Rapidrob

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Since I posted the 300 deg.F on the stove body it has become more efficient do a drip tube placement and can run as high as 700 degrees.
I found I can reduce the drip to one a second and the stove will run all day at 450 D-F.
I now have the oil drip hit the edge of the hole and splatter (vacuum sucks it into the burn chamber) and it is instantly flashed into vapors. The stove now roars a little but I can heat the shop all day long on three gallons of used oil.
I'm using old Fork Oil from a motorcycle shop, the kind that is not supposed to burn or foam, but it sure does in this stove.

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The stove body will heat to 300 degrees F. at fast drip.

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Other than the burner's chimney and fittings for the air the parts are free. A local mechanic gave me a brake drum and brake rotors. The chimney is extra heavy for heat mass. It could be just about any metal that can take the heat.
The other used brake rotors are stacked like a pagoda above the burner to trap and divert heat as it rises in the stove.
 

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We all fell into the pit of darkness after Photobucket decided that 300 bucks would free-up your third party photos.
This is an update on an oil burning stove I did last year.
The stove body is very heavy being made from high pressure gas/oil pipeline. The walls are 1/2" thick. The base is 3/4" cold rolled steel to prevent burn/rust out for a lifetime.
I tried several burner designs for a modified air/drip system and settled on a modified automotive brakes burner.
What this is is a truck brake drum is used as the fire box.The hub and stud holes are welded shut.  The top of the drum brake is sealed by the same maker truck disk brake with the center cut out. A flue is made from heavy walled steel pipe and perforated to allow air flow and proper mixture of the dripping oil vapors and air.
Out side of the stove is a gravity feed 5 gallon steel pail and pet cock valve. I found this works very well to pre-heat the oil and allow a drip rate to be set. My oil is a verity of mixed waste oils and not super clean.
The air is provided by a small two cylinder air brush compressor. It only draws as much current as a 75 Watt bulb.
I fed the air to the side if the flue via a copper line and a small orifice I made with a hole just large enough to really swirl the air in the burner. The pump is now outside of the shop in a weather proof box. This removes all the noise.
The stove takes 20 minutes to heat up before a thermostatic fan kicks in to move the warm air around the shop.
The stove body heats up to 600 Degrees F if I let the oil flow and 350 DF if I let it drip.
The mass of the stove stays hot for a couple of hours when shut down.
Inside of the stove I have stacked several heavy steel plates as well as old brake disk to slow the rising heat and disperse it around the body of the stove.
The stove is fairly efficient in that I burn 5 gallons of oil on a really cold day in ten hours of drip time.
This will keep my shop a 65 Degrees F. If I need to go warmer to dry paint,etc I will increase the temp to 75 Degrees F and burn the oil in 6 hours.
When at temp there is no smoke nor any smell.
The burner comes apart instantly for removing the ash in the drum brake. I only need to do this once a month depending on the quality of the waste oil.
So far I have not found an oil that does not burn well in this stove.


   

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: December 07, 2016, 07:01:31 pm »
I ran the stove last winter and up to now. I have a supplier for used motor oil and other oils. So far, all the oils I have tried work very well. I use a small two piston air compressor for a paint gun. It provides more than enough air and is inexpensive to run. The brake drum combustor  runs at 900 Deg F. I built a heat collector inside of the stove to reduce wast heat going up the chimney.
The stove operates at 450 degrees F and once it is hot ( 30 minutes) it heats my shop well. I burn two gallons of used oils a day. Very little ash is left over. A fan on a thermostat turns on once the stove reaches 150 degrees F.
There is little odor in or outside. No smoke. 

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Welcome Center / Re: Howdy from New Mexico
« on: May 31, 2016, 08:20:34 pm »
Since I posted the topic the weather turned south and it was cold for several weeks.
I burned about 20 gallons of old auto oil and other oils I will not mention with outstanding results. The stove takes a good hour or longer to really warm up but once it does it will stay hot for many hours after shut down.
I run my stove at 250 degrees F (body temp) and the stack temp is 180 degrees F.
I recoup the stack heat by use of a ducked fan.
There is no smoke no matter what fuel I burn. Odor is very slight outside. Nothing can be smelled inside of my shop after it is up to temp.
I now have an unlimited source of free oil for my winter heating.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: March 09, 2016, 09:42:37 pm »
I did a 16 hour test burn of the stove using three different oil burners, The 60's Hippie MEN burner, the car rotor and brake drum and  the 'Aluma-Tuna" burner I built.
The stove interior is large and max BTU output is a must. The MEN burner and the Aluma-Tuna burners worked well but could not get the stove mass hotter than 250 degrees F. Not good enough.
The auto brakes burner showed the best performance overall. It got the stove up to 400 degrees.
None of the burners burned clean. Oily smoke to some extent was always seen. I tried adjusting the air flow going into the burn chamber and it did help. I fired up a small compressor for a test and fed a 1/4" ID  hose and fitting into one of the air holes in the burner's stack. I adjusted the air flow until the burner sounded like it was at max efficiency. No smoke at all. The burner was putting out the max heat it could. I did not let it run any further as the hose would have melted.
I let the unit cool down and then drilled and tapped the burner's stack for a 1/2 pipe close nipple that I also tapped the inside for 1/4" pipe. The fitting is at an angle to the stack to cause the air and fumes to swirl. This now allows a metal tube to deliver the air to aid in combustion.
I do not want to run the compressor for hours on end. I'm thinking I will use a large aquarium air pump instead.
I'll post the results.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 14, 2016, 06:40:12 pm »
The build of this stove was a 1970's design that burns wood,coal and oil.
No advantage what so ever,more a multi-use.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 12, 2016, 05:38:14 pm »
not a problem. I too had to re-think how I was going to get enough air into the burn area. I have the stove pipe and "through Roof" adapter arriving next week and I can start to play with the first initial burn. The good thing about a welder is that I can correct my screw ups!
Shame this site is so dead. I bet it was a lot of fun a few years back.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 11, 2016, 08:37:16 pm »
Through the door for the initial burn test. Once it is burning without smoke I will start to close the door until it smokes. This will show me how much air it will need. A hole will be cut in the stove body to allow the proper amount of draft air needed.
Some of the youtube builds show the air pipe around the oil drip tube.
The MEN burners were all inside the stoves as well as several of the Aussie burners.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 08, 2016, 03:20:31 pm »
I finished the oil burner today. I used a 10" truck brake drum and a solid disc brake.
I used a 4" angle grinder and cut the center out of the disc brake. It's easy to do and only took about 15 minutes. This leaves a slight lip that you can use to hold the 6" flue pipe centered for welding.
The brake drum is turned up side down and I fitted a 1/8" steel plate on it to cover the lug and axle holes.
The 6" I.D steel pipe I bought is heavy wall. While not really needed,it will hold a lot of heat. I drilled two rows of 1/2" diameter holes, 1 inch apart. The first row is two inches above the bottom of the flue pipe. A second set of holes two inches above the first row ( total four inches up) was drilled with the holes in-between the first row. A stagger pattern.
I do not know if the holes are large enough but they are the same size as most used on youtube vids.
I welded the 6" flue pipe on top of the  disc brake.
The disc brake I found is a perfect flush fit inside of the overturned brake drum. The weight of the flue pipe will not allow the disc brake w/flue to move even if there is a fume "explosion" when lighting the fire.
I drilled a 1" tapered hole in the disc brake to allow the oil drip. Some folks say the hole should be small,others large. I went with large. I can always drill a smaller hole and use the larger hole for air flow.
My burner will be inside of the stove,not under it as most are.
I have to install the chimney next to see if I have an air draw problem or not. I will post photo's as the project continues.
Brake drum and oil seal steel plate installed. 3/8" flush fitting bolts.


Disc brake with flue welded on,air holes drilled and oil drip hole made


Complete unit.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 06, 2016, 05:39:35 pm »
The story is too long to post,but I bought 6 feet of 6Inch I.D pipe today. All 180 pounds of it. I will use it for the flue of a couple burners.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 05, 2016, 05:03:11 pm »
I decided the MEN burner was not going to be hot enough after a test run. I'm 90% through building an Ozzirt burner build. I need to drive into town for some 6" pipe for the burner's flue.

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User Projects & Pictures / Re: Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 04, 2016, 06:58:20 pm »
UPDATE:
The Mother Earth News burner showed up today and I made a "mini" stove out of a metal can. I tried used motor oil and it worked very well. I tried the clean transformer oil and noted that it took about 200 degrees F more to ignite but it burned cleanly.
I did a trial fit of the burner in the stove and I will need to extend the oil feed tube 6".
Also I am going to add a safety heat absorbing,air gap wall, on two sides of the stove. This will prevent a fire from the radiant heat and radiate the heat back into the shop.
I will update the photo's as the project progresses.
Still open to ideas.

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User Projects & Pictures / Please help me design this oil stove.
« on: February 03, 2016, 11:17:06 am »
I recently acquired a large amount of of clean transformer oil (non-PCB) that I salvaged. The company that used to take the oil for free now charges 400 bucks to get rid of it. Being born at night,but not last night I walked away from them.
I hit Craigslist and found an "oil burning stove" 100 miles away from next to nothing. While the owner says he was able to burn oil there is no burner plate or other device to allow the oil to be heated to vapors.
 The stove is well made with 1/2 steel being used. It weighs close to 400 pounds. The oil is fed from a 5 gallon bucket at a 20 degree angle.



The stove is 19" O.D with 18" I.D usable. Air gap under stove is 5", Door is 8x12" opening.

The stove stands 43" to the top of the flue

6" flue opening

standard pet-cock to control oil flow. Steel feeder pipe.

I found this Mother's Earth News built burner on ebay for 5 bucks. The bottom skillet is 10",the top 8" with the perforated plates to help vaporize the oil. 



I searched the internet and youtube for ideas and plans only to find most of the links were dead or the quality of the vids poor. Many of the posters can no longer be contacted due to the age of their post.
It was not until I had the parts in hand that I found this site and I'm hoping you guys can help me out with ideas or even plans.
I would like to use the stove a s Drip Oil type burner if that is possible using Transformer Oil?
Compressed air is not an option.
Power is not a problem.
I have no real idea as to how to configure the firebox and capture the heat before it all goes out of the chimney?
At this point I'd like to do it right. I have on hand gas torches,welders,disc cutters and a medium sized lathe/milling machine.
Running a 12(or more) foot chimney straight up out of the shop is not a problem.
I'd like your ideas as to my options and would really appreciate them.
I look forward to your replies.
Rob


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