Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.
Waste Oil Heater => Waste Motor Oil => Topic started by: gte on February 01, 2015, 01:05:33 pm
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My cb2800 will run for 5 seconds or so but it will not ignite. Does anyone have any ideas what to check for next? I have used motor oil in the tank, I'm seeing oil on nozzle when I pull the heater unit away from the combustion chamber but I'm not sure how to check the electrode? How can I check to see how the oil is spraying/atomizong? What else should I be looking at?
Below is a video of what it is doing.
http://youtu.be/9K9GrK3UR0E
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First thing I would check is spark. While it is trying to fire, lift up the igniter and see if spark jumps to the electrodes.
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Hi,
I stuck a paper towel that was lit and the oil ignited. The electrical unit is also sending 120vac to the contacts and the electrode insulator has ~0ohms of resistance.
Could the electrodes be bad?
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Did you actually see the spark jump from the igniter to electrodes when you lifted it ?
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I will try to do that when I'm back out there tomorrow. I don't know if the way it is setup, I can do that but I will try that next to try and narrow this down.
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The igniter is right above the primary control and it is on a hinge. 1 tab on the front holds it down, loosen screw and move tab so the igniter can hinge upwards. While it is trying to fire just lift up on it and you will either see spark or not.
No spark - change igniter.
Yes spark - swing burner open and check condition of electrodes and for grooves in nozzle. If you have grooves on the nozzle head spark is grounding out on the nozzle instead of being blown into the oil spray. Change electrodes if worn down and nozzle if it has grooves. Also make sure the combustion air fan is clean.
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Did you get it figured out ?
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Strangely enough, I did the test procedure you advised (thank you for that) and I saw spark so I set the contacts back down on the electrodes and she fired up and has been starting on her own ever since?
My only other bug to work out now is that the fan runs constantly, even when I change the position of the white plastic piece from auto to manual or manual to auto.
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The igniter could be failing but usually 9x out 10 they just quit for good.
Sounds like your fan limit switch needs replaced.
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Where can you get parts for my cb2800?
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Where do you live ? I will look up and see who your local CB dist is.
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Maryland. I was hoping to avoid a business that has no competition due to regional protectionism ... is that possible?
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I am a CB dist in Montana and we sign contracts saying we will not poach in another dist area. Have you had a problem with your local dist ?
Some common parts you can find online like your fan limit switch.
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I consider it to be a problem.
I called 2 locals asking them to hook up my system and asking for an estimate. They wanted to charge me windshield time for an estimate, which I think is asinine. Had they came out and given me a reasonable estimate, I would have told them to go ahead, but I feel they wanted to gouge me because of the protectionist region that Clean Burn provides them and the mentality that can result from that. I even told them they could make it a time when they were servicing a current customer in my area but presumably because of the lack of competition, they had no interest in doing that.
This does not build trust with me. That is when I set about to get it installed myself. I still would have rather paid someone.
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I personally do not charge for estimates but it can get costly for the dist. to send a guy to do an estimate on a heater they did not sell to you. Used heaters bought from 3rd parties can sometime turn into a nightmare for everyone. The reason for the protected territories is not price gouging but to eliminate throat cutting and no service after the sale. Every dist is different with some being great and others being not so great.
I am here to help in any way I can so please feel free to ask any questions.
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I do not charge for estimates either in my business, as I believe that is a bad business practice.
I called Clean Burn and when I told them I didn't want to deal with the locals, they referred me to someone outside of my regional district in Strasburg, PA. Does this mean I could order the fan switch from you? If so do you know about what it costs?
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I cannot remember off the top of head what length the CB 2800 is, it will be 5" or 8". Measure yours to make sure which one is correct.
Honeywell L4064B2228 5"
L4064B2236 8"
Just punch those numbers into Google and you will find places that will sell it for cheaper shipped to you.
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Thank you for that, you've been a huge help to me.
I wonder if the auto/manual part isn't working properly? I've seen the thermostat portion rotate, so I believe that part of it is working.
I cannot remember off the top of head what length the CB 2800 is, it will be 5" or 8". Measure yours to make sure which one is correct.
Honeywell L4064B2228 5"
L4064B2236 8"
Just punch those numbers into Google and you will find places that will sell it for cheaper shipped to you.
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Just make sure the low temp tab has not been adjusted below 100*.
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I will.
My thermostat outer diameter measurements (long ways) was 4&1/8th of an inch. Is that the 5" model?
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I apologize, I should have described better what needed to be measured. There is a probe that sticks through the sheet metal cabinet and that is what needs to be measured.
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It is 8" long.
Here is a pic, I've noticed that it turns on the fan when I turn the unit on (power wise) and then it turns off, the unit heats up and it then it starts. I noticed it will sometimes get very hot and turn off and then run the fan for 60 seconds or so and then turns that off. Then it sits not running for 10 minutes, cools down and turns on again. It gets very hot when this happens and I would think the fan would run while the unit was off to cool it down, but it doesn't? Is this normal?
(http://s18.postimg.org/lvo1txc95/clean_Burn_Thermostat2.jpg)
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Has anybody messed with the wiring ?
The black wire should be on the right side.
Adjust your low tab to 100*-110*.
Adjust the middle tab to 140*.
Try that and see how it works.
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I have not, I do not know about the previous owner?
So switch the black and orange wires? Should I trace them back to make sure they didn't just switch them around somewhere else as well?
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Orange and red are in the correct spot.
The black wire should be in the bottom right hole.
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I think the unit is getting hot enough to where it shuts down to protect itself ... is this possible? It had turned itself off when I had went out and when I switched the black wire location it was already off from being so hot so nothing happened. I'll have to check it tomorrow when it has cooled down I guess?
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If it hits 200* it kills power to the burner but the fan keeps running to cool the firebox. Once it cools off power is restored to the burner. Power runs through the fan limit switch first then to the burner.
Orange wire is power to the fan.
Red wire is power to the burner.
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Ah, that makes sense, thanks for the explanation.
My fan does not run but for 60 seconds or so, at least with that black wire plugged into the top wire insert port, maybe it will behave differently with the wire plugged into the bottom insert port? I doubt it is only supposed to run for 60 seconds or so when trying to cool the entire unit down? I will see today, if not I guess I will have to order a thermostat after all.
If it hits 200* it kills power to the burner but the fan keeps running to cool the firebox. Once it cools off power is restored to the burner. Power runs through the fan limit switch first then to the burner.
Orange wire is power to the fan.
Red wire is power to the burner.
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Once again I apologize for thinking we are both thinking the same.
I visualize the fan limit switch in the upright position when I describe it. On your heater it is laying on its right side. So when I say ' bottom right ' I mean that while looking at it in the upright position with the dial on top.
With all the different brands I work on they have it mounted differently so to make it easy in my head I remember it in the upright position.
Does that make sense ?
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No need to apologize, I'm the newb here :) . I'm glad I verified though.
So you are telling me to move the black wire from spot 1 to spot 2 then, correct?
(http://s17.postimg.org/zdbp82jrz/thermostat2.jpg)
Once again I apologize for thinking we are both thinking the same.
I visualize the fan limit switch in the upright position when I describe it. On your heater it is laying on its right side. So when I say ' bottom right ' I mean that while looking at it in the upright position with the dial on top.
With all the different brands I work on they have it mounted differently so to make it easy in my head I remember it in the upright position.
Does that make sense ?
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Actually you need to go to #3.
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Ok that is what I tried before. I will try again tonight. Thank you.
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While you are at it lets double check the wiring if you have not already.
Orange wire will go wiring junction on side of heater to fan.
Red wire will go to yellow power cord, once inside the burner it goes to the little preheat block temp switch, once block is warmed to 120* +/- the other wire on the switch sends power to the primary control.
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The wires are as you stated and the black wire is now in the spot labeled #3 on my picture.
The unit still runs for 20 minutes or so, hits 200F on the thermostat, shuts the burner off, shuts the fan off after an additional 60 seconds, then the thermostat pegs and it gets really hot. After 10 minutes it cools down enough to turn on the fan, then after 60 seconds or so it turns on the burner but then it cools down so much it turns off the fan while still running the burner, which then heats the unit up and turns the fan back on after 2 or so minutes. Then it tuns for 15 minutes or so and then the whole cycle repeats itself.
I woul think the fan should run the whole time it gets hot? Is that cycle normal?
While you are at it lets double check the wiring if you have not already.
Orange wire will go wiring junction on side of heater to fan.
Red wire will go to yellow power cord, once inside the burner it goes to the little preheat block temp switch, once block is warmed to 120* +/- the other wire on the switch sends power to the primary control.
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Yes, the fan should fun continuously until cooled to where the lower tab is set.
Did you readjust the tabs like I mentioned earlier ?
How big of a flame do you have ? It should NOT hit the target, with the inspection door open flame should be 1/2-3/4 to target. Flame will grow when you close the door.
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My flame does not hit that bowl in the rear, I remember reading that in the manual and I adjusted it accordingly. I also set the tabs as you advised before starting it today. After my last post I positioned a box fan to run air across the top of the unit and this seems to have fixed the issue? The top of the casjng gets to 275F instead of 400F now.
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When the dial hits 140 does the fan kick in and run ? After the fan is running does the temp continue to build ? It should maybe rise a little but level off.
Does the fan blow good and hard when it does kick in ?
Also has ash been cleaned recently, not at all, etc ? I just want to make sure and rule out plugged heat exchanger tubes.
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I vacuumed out the ashes, is that what you mean?
With the box fan blowing across the top it does what you described now and the Cleanburn fan blows a decent amout of air. I noticed that the back metal cover is not sealing that well and I think that might be contributing to this because it isn't allowing all of the air to move across the heat exchanger and away from the unit itself.
I'm glad to know it is functioning as it should now (if I'm understanding what you wrote correctly), even if it is a little rigged for now until I can get the air flow issue and leaks resolved.
Thank you once more for all of your help, I could not have done this without you.
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Good, we are moving in the right direction.
Does yours have the bladed fan or squirrel cage ? If it is a squirrel cage make sure it is good and clean. It does not take much dust/dirt to effect airflow.
I am glad I was helpful. I am here to help in anyway I can.
PS: You owe me.
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Squirrel cage. I do owe you!
If you were local I would have you come service it, pay you and provide a 12 pack of your favorite beer.
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I had to shut it down, it looks like it is still getting too hot. I don't have a picture from before, but I don't believe that sticker was like that before and that scares me.
I think my problem is airflow, I'm going to clean that fan/cage well, I'm going to seal off the back panel better and finally try to redo the HVAC ducting that has an abrupt 90 degree bend in it.
Do you agree that it is an air flow issue? Any other suggestions?
(http://s14.postimg.org/rizfjr6e9/clean_Burn_Melting1.jpg)
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That is kinda of a odd spot to get hot. The flame goes forward and the heat travels through the tubes.
Is it drafting good ? Have you checked over the firebox and heat exchanger tubes real good to make sure there are no holes ?
If there is any holes, when the fan kicks in it blows back through the inside of the firebox causing issues.
I would pick air flow issue first. That fan might never have been cleaned its whole life.
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So I took the fan off to try and clean it out, took off the rear panel to try and straighten it more and I decided I would vacuum the box a little more. What I found out is that when my cousin said he had vacuumed it out, apparently he only meant the part you can see. I discovered there was a lot of ashes where you couldn't see, as a matter of fact between the tube inlet and tube outlet there was over 5 gallons of ashes :o . 6 out of the 9 tubes were completely blocked with ash, which is probably why it was getting so hot. Which brings me to another question, why are there 9 inlet tubes and 10 outlet tubes?
This this entire morning I have been cleaning that out properly, fixing the air flow issues and getting her back together. When I turned it back on I actually had to adjust the oil pressure and the fan tabs because it was running so cold it was turning the fan on and off, cycling.
I'm letting it run now to see if it turns off from getting too hot, but I believe the ash was the cause.
(http://s11.postimg.org/e5hl3l5kj/clean_Burn_Ashes1.jpg)
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You should clean it about every 750-1000 hours of use. I like to use a brush to clean the tubes. Those tubes are not really inlet/outlet, it is a 3 pass design and I have never gave it any thought as to the number of tubes in #2 and #3 pass.
How big of an adjustment did you make to the fan tabs ? They should have been close with the 100-140 settings. The fan might cycle depending how cold it is in the shop once warmed up it should level off.
Flame adjustment should still be the same and I can see having to make an adjustment due to it not being able to breath.
Air 14-16 psi
Oil according to length
Combustion air adjusted to bright flame with orange tips.
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Ok, air is at 18, I will turn it down a few psi. Oil is burning as you described, it now is doing something new though. It will shut itself off after running for 20 minutes or so and not start back up even when the thermostat is telling it to turn on and the temperature starts to drop? I have to reset it to get it to restart and run again. Any idea what would cause that?
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I would watch oil pressure and make sure it is not dropping. Did you get the Lenz filter with gauge that mounts before the pump with the heater ? Watch that gauge and if it starts dropping to 10" of vacuum you need to clean filters.
Another thing is compressed air. Is the compressor keeping up ok on the longer runs ? The air proving switch needs at least 30 psi to turn the pump on. I like to install an air filter regulator and set it at 50-60 psi.
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I adjusted everything as you recommended, I had to turn up the oil pressure to stop the below from happening though and the flame is pretty strong now. Is there something else I can try to keep it running? It seems to not want to restart itself?
Cleanburn flameout 1: http://youtu.be/mu15mxOD3UI
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Oil pressure bouncing = sucking air somewhere between pump and suction screen. That gauge on the Lenz filter should be at 0" or somewhere in between to 10".
Oil pump plumbing is my #1 thing I tell my customers no ifs ands or butts about it, we are doing it my way.
Could you take a picture of the oil pump and tank setup ? Lets see if we can make any improvements in that area.
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Hi,
It seems to be starting and acting more normal now that I turned the pressure up to ~4psi from ~3psi, although the flame travels pretty far back now in my opinion. Here are some pics of the setup and also a video from the tank to the burner to help make it more clear. The needle still does fluctuate, but not as much now.
Trying to watch the gauge as I start it, I don't see it move much and I'm concerned it might not be moving at all. Is the oil pressure gauge oscillating something that is abnormal? Is it usually dead set once it gets going and holds steady? If not an air leak, could anything else cause that? I'm not the best at solder copper, but I would think that any air leak that could cause the gauge to fluctuate, would also leave a significant amount of oil on the floor when the pump wasn't running (low side) or when the pump was running (high side).
Thanks.
Cleanburn setup1: http://youtu.be/mYUUutGCsZU
(http://s23.postimg.org/t1thkobnv/clean_Burn_Setup1.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.org/u6njq1y4r/clean_Burn_Setup2.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.org/45vgjfzm3/clean_Burn_Setup3.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.org/9rhvni0az/clean_Burn_Setup4.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.org/7tft38x6z/clean_Burn_Setup5.jpg)
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I would definitely redo the whole pump setup.
Pump on top of tank - 1/2" hex nipple screwed into pump - 3/4"male to 1/2" female swivel for Lenz outlet - 3/4" street L for Lenz inlet - 1 piece of 3/4" black pipe long enough for the p/u screen to be at roughly 3" off the bottom of tank - 3/4" check valve goes on pipe and p/u screen screws in to it.
Loctite #2 gasket sealer for threads and tighten everything tight plus another turn.
This way when it comes time to clean filters you only have to loosen the 1/2" swivel to remove with stand pipe so both filters get cleaned at the same time.
The gauge on the burner should go up to set pressure and not bounce around at all. I have had suction side air leaks but no oil leaking out. It can be quite frustrating so I eliminate as many fitting as possible and plumb it the way I do.
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I will redo it then, I want to make sure it will work properly first. The machine is cutting itself off for no reason. I watch the oil gauge so I know it isn't oil pressure, even though it is fluctuating.
Could the flame light sensor be going bad? What else could cause the sudden and random shutoff issues? Is there a way to bypass the flame sensor? Does it work off of resistance and I could use a resistor to test it instead?
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The fluctuation can cause it to shut down. The cad cell (flame sensor) needs to a see a good bright flame or it will tell the primary to shut down. Every time the oil pressure drops it sees dark and if it sees enough dark it locks out. Sucking air is the #1 problem I see with heaters. The smallest amount of air can cause all kinds of problems.
Do not bypass the cad cell unless for test purposes only. If you leave it bypassed and the flame happens to go out the heater will keep running thinking there is still a flame and you will fill the firebox full of oil. I have seen this and it is a ugly mess and a potentially huge fire risk.
Make sure the cad cell is clean then work on the fluctuation issue.
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It will be a bit before I can rebiild the low pressure and high pressure lines. Can I use cpvc on both sides? If not I will have to figure out where to get alll of the fittings and adapters you suggested.
I cleaned the sensor today and noticed that it seems to be working consistently for a few hours now. I'm not convinced it is going to keep working though. I also noticed that the flame sensor will generate between 4 and 6 volts DC when running. Is this correct? Do they have a wiring manual and specification for this unit? If it stops working again I can at least check that voltage level now for testing with my meter.
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The 3/4 pipe and street L you can get at Home Depot/Lowes. The swivel and hex nipple you can get at a place that does hydraulic hoses. Black pipe and black pipe only for the stand pipe. For the pressure side I like to use 3/8" nylon like what semi trucks use for air lines and quick connect push in fittings.
The cad cell is measured in Ohms. The brighter the flame the lower the ohms. Hook your meter up where the 2 yellow wires connect at the primary control with heater off take note of reading, fire up heater and take note of reading. While the heater is running watch the meter while adjusting oil pressure you will see the ohms change and that should give you an idea of how low of oil pressure you can have before it shuts off.
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I did what you described with resistance previously when checking the voltage, my meter is auto ranging and resistance would jump all around from 6k to 16k when off, it was strange. Voltage seemed a little more consistent, 0vDc when off and 4 to 6vDc when on. The resistance measurement when on was about 250 ohms. It is still running by itself now 5 or 6 hours later and responding to the thermostat correctly. Aside from redoing the low and high pressure lines, I will have to keep an eye on it and see if it will run autonomously now.
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250 ohms is good, I like to shoot for 500 or less. The ohms reading will jump around if oil pressure is bouncing around as your flame is changing. The cad cell resistance changes according to brightness of flame. You can unplug just the eye and test its resistance with darkness and a flashlight.
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Great news, it is still working on its own. I'm not going to abandon the replumb but it would be great if I could do it at my own leisure and not be rushing around trying to get it working in this cold spell we are having and small snow storm. I wonder how to figure out how much oil it is using at 55F room temp?
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That heater burns about 2 gallons per hour so if you keep track of hours on the meter you just take that number x 2. It will give you a close estimate.
That is what I like to hear. I think the best part about it is no money was spent to get to this point.
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You are absolutely right, that is the best part and as a nice side effect, I know a lot more about these units than I did 2 weeks ago ... I might even be able to service and clean it on my own now :)
So more than 24 hours later it is still running and maintaining the proper temperature. I notice that it add 1/10 of a running hour for every actual hour ... at least today it did. So using that number/ratio it will run for 2.4 hours a day and use 5 gallons of oil a day, does this sound correct? Or about 150 gallons a month in the winter conditions like I'm having now. If correct, this is a good way for me to know how much waste oil I will need for the years to come ... probably around 600 gallons each winter.
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My dad went to check on the heater and he said that it had turned off, so I'm going to test it when I get home.
I was going to test for voltage and resistance to compare it to the previously noted values. I was also going to bypass the thermostat to see if it turned on (indicating a thermostat problem) . If it does not turn on when I bridge the thermostat terminals and it has air pressure, do you have any other ideas for what I should check for? Can I test for voltage values in the electrical connector inside of the burner?
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I would stay with checking the basics first.
When you hit the reset see if it fires right up then go to watching oil pressure and flame. Check for oil gauge bounce and make sure the flame has no sparkles. Sparkles is bad oil/water/antifreeze. I am thinking you still might be sucking some air.
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Here is a video (at the bottom) of me starting it for the very first time. I also took some measurements with Dc, Ac and resistance on the CAD sensor. I'm going to go check on it in an hour. Does anything look off to you? I know you can't see it in the video, but the oil goes up to about 7psi and then settles at 4.5 or 5psi within a few seconds.
Before start, not running resistance
(http://s26.postimg.org/n3kjfdofd/20150218_185045.jpg)
Before start not running - Dc
(http://s26.postimg.org/iiyd0g4q1/20150218_185106.jpg)
Before start not running - Ac
(http://s26.postimg.org/wdwniwz55/20150218_185120.jpg)
Running - resistance
(http://s26.postimg.org/4udrl2jft/20150218_185409.jpg)
Running - Dc
(http://s26.postimg.org/vcwetsi5l/20150218_185347.jpg)
Running - Ac (http://s26.postimg.org/vqxqte295/20150218_185357.jpg)
Cleanburn start up after failure1: http://youtu.be/jZSPPxSX2xg
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Looks like it started nice and easy. Hopefully when it acts up you will be standing there and see what happens.
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Ok, well I will have to redo the low pressure and high pressure lines soon to rule that out. I also forgot to mention that I did not see any sparkling in the flame. I may have to set up a recorder to view when it stalls out?
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A camera would be a great idea since it will probably not fail if you are sitting there staring at it. I should get myself a GoPro for symptoms like this.
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Good news, it kind of failed when I was sitting there. After the thermostat turned it off, I put volt meters on the solenoids and the oil pump junction box wiring and upped the temperature and it did the behavior seen in the first video, then I was able to see something even more interesting in the second video.
I noticed the air pressure gauge was showing pressure but the oil pressure gauge was not. The oil solenoid was however getting 110vAc and so was the oil pump. The unit would of course turn itself off after 5 or 10 seconds as it wasn't seeing a flame via the CAD sensor and this appears to be because there is no oil pressure.
During the second video, you can see me reset the unit a second time around the 20 second mark and then you'll see that there is no oil pressure or flame, then I go over to the pump to show there is voltage to it and right at the 28 second mark you'll hear a click or thump from the oil pump and then you can hear the unit turn on and then hear the normal flame whistle coming from inside of the fire box. To put it another way, the brain energized the pump but the pump did not turn on and there was no oil pressure and towards the very end of the window of time it will continue to attempt to start a flame/fire, the pump made a click/thump, turned on and created oil pressure, allowing the flame to start and the CAD sensor to see the flame and then allow it to continue to run as normal. Also, when the pump is creating 0 pressure, I can feel it vibrating slightly.
So I believe it is the pump that is the cause of it not restarting. I believe the unit itself tries to restart, but gets no oil pressure within the time allotment window that the brain allows for it to start and then goes into a failed limp mode requiring a reset button press to restart. So then the question that comes to mind is, could this be due to some sort of air build up in the pump/lines, or more likely (because of the click/thump clue) is there some sort of solenoid or relay inside the pump that is failing, which starts/turns the motor over therefore creating pressure? Is this common? What's a new pump cost? (do I even want to know)
Cleanburn start up after failure 2: http://youtu.be/P3lY6T632LE
Cleanburn start up after failure 3: http://youtu.be/A_VSk3LHiRo
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The first thing I would look at is the pump coupler. Sometimes one of the set screws will loosen up and it will not always spin the pump shaft.
Has the reset ever popped on the pump motor ?
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I have never had to reset that button on the pump. How much disassembly is required to get to the set screw?
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With the way you have the pump mounted it would probably be the easiest to use an inspection mirror. Hold the mirror underneath between the motor and pump. The coupler will have a set screw on each end. Make sure they are tight on the flats of each shaft.
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Hi,
The set screws appear to be tight. It's behaving just like a starter that is on its way out, the coils get energized but it won't rotate until you smack it a little.
Can these pumps be rebuilt or am I better off buying another one?
Here is the latest pattern, that seems to be very consistent. I will go into the building and see that the unit is not running and hasn't been running for some time as the temperature is lower than the thermostat should allow it to be. I can tell how long it hasn't ran for based on how much lower the temperature is compared to where it should be. I will try to start the unit, and it will not generate oil pressure so before the run time window ends I will smack the case of the motor and it will start to rotate and create pressure and run after this. Depending on how long it has been sitting without running depends on how many times it will stall out before running on its own. It can stall out anywhere from 0 to 5 times. I attribute this to air in the lines when the pump is not running but the unit is trying to start its flame.
You can hear it sputter a little and then it will usually flame out, even though oil pressure stays in the 4 to 5 psi range on the gauge. Is the gauge slow to react with some sort of hysteresis? Do you agree that the unit can flame out due to a lack of oil or oil pressure, even if the gauge is reading 4 or 5 psi? Could the gauge be reading the pressure of the air inside of the oil lines and not know the difference, so it appears there is oil pressure there when it is really air pressure at some points mixed in, which causes flame out?
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Sounds like the motor is going bad. The motor and pump are 2 separate components that can purchased separately. The motor is a very common oil burner motor that is easily found many places and for usually under $ 100.
Yes, you can have small pockets of air all through out the system where the gauge reads ok sometimes and sometimes not. Air is a very big PITA.
If you are going to change the motor that would be a good time to replumb it since you have to take it all apart.
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Will do, I did not know you could get the motor separate from the pump assembly, that'd be great! All of my google searches turned up the whole assembly and not the motor separately.
I will do the motor and replumb at the same time and hopefully have permanent success after that.
Is this the motor?
http://www.wasteoilheaterparts.com/110hpburnermotor33175.aspx
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That motor is for the metered pump.
The best thing to do is search by the sticker that is on the motor.
AO Smith EL2014V1 and you can cross reference this to other brands or just punch it into Google and see many places to buy it.
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Ok, lots of hits on that. When I get home I will check the sticker, confirm and then get a pump and start drawing how I can replumb this.
Thank you
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Some strangeness continues
I went out to start her this morning with a reset and she started but the flame looked weird and was 1/2 the length it normally is. It stayed that way for about 2 minutes, which is also uncharacteristic, but the pressure stayed the same. Then it went out and would not start after 5 or 10 resets, although pressure was climbing and the oil pump was working and I verified that oil was spraying as well as air. At this point, I figured I had oil and air, the only thing missing was spark. I pulled the boiler out enough to get a map gas torch flame inline with the oil coming out and it lit but then went out, then it lit again and went out and then it lit stronger and continued? I don't know if the oil had junk in it or if my electrode is on its way out. Now it seems to be starting normally???
Here is my pump sticker
AO SMITH Motor 316P717
Looks like the number you supplied is a good replacement for it ... looks like this seller is out near you, do you know them?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AO-Smith-Reversible-Motor-316P717-1-6-HP-1725-RPM-115V-XEL2014-FREE-SHIPPING-/261723416661
(http://s3.postimg.org/fh374zkr7/clean_Burn_Oil_Pump1.jpg)
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... and now it won'y turn on, start or illuminate but it is getting power to the junction box?
In your opinion should I give up on this thing and cut my losses?
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Is the green power light on ?
Is there power to the fan limit switch and you can turn on the fan ?
I would not give up yet, since you already have it installed and so far it has just been little things, no big money items yet.
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I do not know who that person is with the motor and if it was me I would rather buy from a supply house.
This place looks to be in Dover which I am guessing is kinda close to you ? They have a good price.
http://www.sqone.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.prodInfo&prodId=72325
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Also check the condition of the yellow quick disconnect cord ends.
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I am getting power to the yellow disconnect. I checked that before I had to leave to go plow. The green and orange lights do not illuminate.
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Make sure to check the male/female ends of the cord really good. I have had a couple of issues with older cords.
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(http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20141210185337/glee/images/3/30/Frankenstein-its-alive.gif)
The black wire to the thermostat was not connected very well, as soon as I moved it the unit started itself, so we are back in business and down to only 2 issues ... pump motor replacement and plumbing redo. God was good to me with this storm and plowing so I have some extra money now :)
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Do you double check all your pump wiring connections to make sure they are good ? This might be related to the pump motor not kicking in.
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I'm going to check them after I get some sleep and I thought of that but I know definitively that the pump starts when you smack it (like a starter) so I'm not sure how wiring fits into the equation if the pump starts sometimes and created pressure when on.
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The pump still did not kick on after seating all of the wires that I could and will kick on when I smack the side of it (like a starter) so I ordered the pump today. Thanks for that link, you saved me a few bucks plus they are in Delaware and 1 or 2 days shipping away.
I'll be nursing it until the motor comes in and then be swapping motors as soon as I can. Is the swap difficult or does it require any special tools? I need to draw out the new plumbing system as well and get those parts too.
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How does this look?
#1 is the screen (where do you get those from, Home Depot?
#2 is the check valve (same question)
#3 is the 3/4" tubing (can I use pvc here)
#4 is 3/4" street L
#5 is the 3/4"m to 1/2"f swivel
#6 is the inlet 1/2" flare fitting
#7 is the outlet 1/2" flare fitting
Can I use 1/2" CPVC from the pump to the burner? It's rated for over 100psi at 200F. I guess the inlet side is some sort of 3/4" black PVC pipe?
(http://s26.postimg.org/k3ie6tf55/clean_Burn_Pump_Setup1.jpg)
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All you need for the pump motor is a 1/2" wrench and 1/8" allen wrench for the coupler set screw.
3/4" check valve and screen should have been with the heater.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waste-Oil-Heater-Parts-Lenz-Suction-Strainer-3-4-/191502886802?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c96762792
Combu 3/4" check valve
3/4" black iron pipe for stand pipe
1/2" steel hex nipple is not flare.
For the outlet 3/8" is more than big enough for that short run. I like to use 3/8" nylon air brake tubing like what semi trucks use for air lines. The push lock fittings make it easy to install.
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Here is a couple of pics that might help.
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Thanks for the pics. I will track down a check valve and order that and the strainer. I also wanted to order a few extra oil filters and an extra nozzle or two.
Do you mount the pump to something else and then plumb the 3/4" tube into the tank that way through the tanks large (approximately 2" hole) or are you mounting the pump to the tank itself somehow?
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The filters are stainless steel washables and will last forever so I would not buy any extras. You could get 1 extra 9-5 nozzle to have.
You could use a piece of wood that goes to the wall or maybe some square tubing bolted to the pump then tack welded to the top of the tank.
Just make sure everything is lined up with the 2" hole since you have to use that one for the p/u screen to fit.
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Here is a couple of pics where I used uni-strut for pump feet tack welded to tank.
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How is everything coming along ?
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Sorry, I just saw this.
I haven't had much free time with the snow we've been having so I haven't taken her apart yet and replumbed it. I also am waiting to get the air line in.
I did however make one great purchase, check it out :) http://weatherdirect.com/TX60.aspx?&wusid=318245&bxid=2147923158
And I noticed what is seen in the picture below in the bottom of the burner, is this common?
(http://s26.postimg.org/fwyz156uh/clean_Burn_Oil_Leak2.jpg)
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There should be no oil down there. On the right side there is a cover you can remove so you can get in there and clean up that oil. Then we can track down where it is coming from.
That will be nice having the remote sensor.