Waste Oil Heater Forum - Your definitive source for burning waste oil for heat.
Waste Oil Heater => Waste Oil Filtering => Topic started by: Farmer Dave on January 02, 2012, 09:27:30 pm
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Hello everybody. I'm new here, and am looking for all kinds of help and input for building my burner. I was thinking about either an auto filter or home water filter. I've been reading about the possibilities of the reaction with the plastics in water filters. But I know that some auto filters have valves in them that require a certain about of pressure to open them and allow a flow (ie. Harley twin cam filters). This would be near impossible for me, because I'm going to doing a siphon burner, and it wouldn't have the pressure to open a valve. Is there a particular filter that is preferred?
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Welcome Dave.
I cant say which one is best, but I have been using a PH8A Fram automotive filter on my setup. It has worked well for me so far. Yes, I have heard that the automotive type will bypass if they get too plugged up, but I have never heard for sure about that.
I just be sure to twist on a new fram once in a while as they are quite cheap, although there may be better options out there. Anyone else?
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i use a lenz filter, it has a stainless steal element you can clean, so after you buy it, no more elements to buy, you can get them on ebay, the one i use is a dh750 100,
if you use a large oil tank (200+ gallon) and only draw 6-8 inches from bottom, alot of your oil particles will settle to the bottom of the tank, if you draw directly off the bottom your filter will plug much faster!
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I have lenz cleanable filter with the stainless steel 100 mesh screen. the 100 mesh screen only filters down to 140 microns. that size partcle is large enough to plug my siphon nozzle. so i have a spin on auto filter a (fram ph8a) that filter down to 20 microns. the trouble with the auto filter is the by pass relief valve opens at 12 psi http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetail.aspx?b=F&pn=PH8A letting unfilter oil get to the nozzle. so when the gauge get to 9 to 10psi i'll change filters.
you can find spin on auto filters that don't have by relief valve such as a jomar pro filter part number 9025 replaces a fram ph8a.
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Good info there Doug. Interesting fact on the fram filter. I should probably put a gauge on mine.
Farmer Dave brings up a good question, with a siphon system, can you put a filter between the constant level tank and the burner? Will there be enough suction to do this? I am thinking probably not and that the oil should be filtered before it gets to the constant level tank.
What is the best way to do this when using a constant level tank?
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What I was going to do if I'd keep a c/l tank was to reinstall the oil pump back on my burner unit. Then run a supply line form the tank to the pump with either an auto filter or a fuel oil filter just before the pump. Then a return line back to the tank with a tee that went to the c/l tank. This would have given me a supply of filter wmo to the c/l tank. I would have backed off the pressure valve in the pump also.
doug
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Good idea Doug, thanks for sharing. Is my drawing correct the way you were thinking?
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That's pretty much the way I was going to do it. After seeing how my metering pump is set up I'd do it different now. I like the Lenz filter with the vacuum gauge on the input line. Then on the output a pressure gauge then the auto/fuel oil filter. The gauges would let me know how dirty the filter are.
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I find a Hydraulic filter with a a remote filter base works great I filter 5 gallons at a time with my set up all gravity fed and works well. it also is a good way to settle filter and then I use a fuel filter in line on my drip furnace